Cypris Materials uses the blue morpho butterfly for inspiration in the development of their colour sustainable coating technology, which is able to achieve all the colours of the rainbow without any toxic dyes or pigments.
When it comes to eye-catching insects, it’s hard to beat the blue morpho butterfly. One of the largest butterflies in the world, this native of Central and South America sports bright blue iridescent wings. If you have colour envy, advancements in the field of nanotechnology may allow you to one day paint your nails, or even your whole house, the same iridescent blue as this butterfly. Back in the day, paint often got its color from the actual animal kingdom. Insects like cochineal and carmine gave us rich blues and blood reds. Renaissance painters used egg as a binder in tempura oil painting. Now, rather than using insects as the material, one company is using them as inspiration. And it has the potential to do a lot more than beautify.
Cypris Materials –a company in Berkeley, California– has created a paint inspired by blue morpho butterfly wings, which get their color from blue lightwaves reflecting off the nanostructure of the wings themselves (up close you’ll see they’re actually translucent). Like butterfly wings, Cypris’ paint works through reflection, so color comes from particular lightwaves that reflect off the nanostructure of the paint. In short, this paint functions through structural color rather than chemical processes. Coatings and color are restricted by aesthetics, ease of application, expense, range, and toxicity. Innovation in industries from various sectors like automotive, construction, and consumer products are all similarly limited by their surface chemistry. In industry, colors are typically produced by the inclusion of potentially toxic pigments, dyes, and binders within the coatings.
Replicating the blue morpho butterfly’s spectacular wing colour involves a trick of the light. The top of the blue morpho’s wings are actually translucent. The bright blue colour is produced by tiny overlapping microscopic scales arranged across the surface of the wing that reflect light. This type of colour production is called structural colour. Structural colours are found throughout nature, says Dr. Natalia Dushkina, a professor from the Department of Physics at Millersville University, Pennsylvania. They’re produced by biological species including butterflies, birds, beetles, and fish, as well as shells, pearls and minerals like labradorite. The colours are generated by light reflecting back from a microstructure. “Everytime you see such intense blue-green colours with metallic sheen and glossiness, those are structural colours”, says Dushkina.
“The most important characteristic of structural colours is that they vary with the viewing angle,” says Dushkina. Take the iridescent feathers of a wood duck for example. “The colour changes if the duck tilts the head, or if the sun rays go down. During lunchtime, you see beautiful blue colour, and then at sunset, you look at the same duck and it is purplish.” Scientists have been chasing after the structural colour of a blue morphos butterfly for years. Not only do structural colours promise a dazzling iridescent shimmer effect that can’t be reproduced with pigments, but structural colours eliminate the need for pigments and dyes. The simplicity of this approach makes it possible to replace multimillion-dollar manufacturing equipment with a simple paint brush. These coatings are designed to replicate the naturally-occurring nanostructures that produce the brilliant colors observed in butterfly wings, peacock feathers, and opal gemstones.
The capability opens up an array of less toxic aesthetic choices, and it has functional benefits too. A treatment that reflects UV light could protect outdoor furniture from fading in the sun. Another treatment could reflect near infrared light—aka heat. The coating can then be applied to roofs, windows, and more, which would absorb less heat and reduce A/C use. Pearson claims the treatment can reduce energy by 20%. Apply the coating to a rooftop and you could still keep its dark color if you prefer!
The potential to act as a cooling agent is important, because our cities are getting hotter all the time. All the pavement in those so-called concrete jungles absorbs rather than reflect heat, and can create “heat islands” where cities are around 10 degrees warmer than the surrounding area. There are other architectural elements to reduce the environmental impact of our homes and offices, like tree planting, rooftop gardens, and painting roofs white. But this provides another potential tool, as this coating could also be used to help self-driving cars, which use LiDAR signals to detect nearby objects, Pearson says. LiDAR is infrared, so it’s absorbed by dark objects, making them harder to detect. Add a LiDAR reflective coating on bikes, bike helmets, and dark vehicles that share the road, says Pearson, and they’ll be better detected by self-driving vehicles.
When picking ingredients for eco-friendly paint, less is more. Paints and inks are typically composed of four different components: a binder, solvent, additives, and colourants. “What we make is essentially a binder”,says Dr. Ryan Pearson, co-founder and CEO of Cypris Materials. Because the binder itself produces the colour, there is no need to add pigments or dyes. “We take inherently safe materials, reshape them a bit through our polymer chemistry, and we’re able to make a simpler, safer paint.”
The Ray of Hope Prize® celebrates nature-inspired solutions addressing the world’s biggest environmental and sustainability challenges. Created in honor of Ray C. Anderson, founder of Interface, Inc. and a business and sustainability leader, the $100,000 Ray of Hope Prize helps startups cross a critical threshold in becoming viable businesses by amplifying their stories and providing them with equity-free funding. The prize shines a light on the innovative, nature-inspired solutions that we need to build a sustainable and resilient world. Cypris Materials was selected as the Runner Up for the 2020 Ray of Hope Prize. Although the company doesn’t sell directly to consumers, expect structural color to appear in consumer goods, including cosmetics, in the next year or two; automotive within the next four, and on buildings in the next five, following long-term weather testing in South Florida.
What if your favourite season of the year could also be celebrated sustainably? At Staiy, we are committed to bringing you the best sustainable brands so that you can give your loved ones eco-friendly presents. Staiy proudly presents the ultimate sustainable holiday gift guide of 2022 with a selection of conscious perfect gifts.
Whether you’re celebrating Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanza or any other holiday, exchanging gifts is an important tradition this time of the year. But choosing unsustainable gifts and brands spells trouble for our planet because of microplastic generation, and unethical trade and manufacturing processes. Luckily, Staiy’s partner brands are here for you to avoid this issue and to pick something meaningful with our holiday gift guide. Let’s check them together!
Armazem Das Malhas is a Portuguese brand that takes pride in its timelessness. Being a family business, it integrates the old traditions and its heritage handmade techniques of the past with sustainability for the future. With the conviction that “Classic design, high-quality materials and a strong ethical and sustainable conscience are key factors of our brand’s DNA”, the brand focuses on the durability and quality of the pieces along with a sense of responsibility towards their loyal customers and the community support that brought the company forward.
This legacy business produces a great collection of handmade socks that will endure forever. Their comfortable cotton socks and wool socks are produced one by one rather than as mass production to avoid wastage of material. These classic socks are available in a multitude of colours and will provide a comfortable fit that will keep you cozy this winter. Armazem Das Malhas’s products reflect the holiday spirit with tradition and warmth, which is why their socks will make the perfect holiday gift.
Hemp is quickly becoming one of the preferred fibres used in sustainable fashion. Sourced from a variety of the Cannabis Sativa plant, hemp is strong, durable and organic. Let’s explore hemp, one of the most renewable and sustainable materials in fashion today.
Before we explore hemp as a material option for sustainable clothing, it is important to recognize that industrial hemp and marijuana are not the same. Because hemp stems from a variety of the Cannabis Sativa plant, hemp and marijuana, along with the plant hashish, contain a compound called tetrahydrocannabinol, or THC. This compound produces psychoactive effects in humans when the amount is greater than 0.3%. However, hemp contains less than 0.3% of THC and is therefore considered much safer than its cannabis cousins, marijuana and hashish.
Although hemp is becoming a popular material in sustainable fashion, it has been used for thousands of years by people worldwide. Hemp is one of the oldest domesticated crops in the world with its first cultivation dating back to 8,000 BC by tribes in Northern China. North America was introduced to hemp in the 1600s as a result of the British using hemp fibre to make rope, sails, clothing and more. Today, hemp is cultivated and used across the world, but production is quite expensive.
The industrial hemp plant is an annual which grows best in temperate zones. According to Encyclopedia Brittanica, crops which are cultivated for fibre are densely sowed and produce plants averaging 2-3 metres tall with minimal branching. Maximum yield and quality production come from harvesting soon after plants reach maturity, meaning they have full blossoms and shed pollen of male plants. To retrieve fibres from the plant, farmers take stalks through a process of retting, drying, crushing and shaking, which completely separates the woody portion and releases a long, straight fibre.
Of all the materials on the market today, hemp is one of the strongest and most durable options. Its cultivation has a low environmental impact, and the fibre is fairly reliable considering it has been used since what is recognized as the beginning of agriculture. A study on hemp fibre even suggests that hemp has triple the tensile strength of cotton and can even be mixed with other fibres to create more comfortable, refined fabrics. Hemp fibre production is also relatively cheap, fast and easy – the most sought-after combination. This is because of the plant’s natural resistance to a variety of insects, little need for water, fast growth and ability to be harvested up to three times per year.
Farming hemp is also eco-friendly because the process is all-natural, meaning no pesticides or harsh chemicals are used. Though hemp fibre is one of the strongest natural materials, it is also lightweight and completely biodegradable while offering insulating, anti-radiation and anti-bacterial properties. Hemp fabric is especially neat because it is highly breathable and adapts to your body’s temperature, keeping you cool in warm weather and warm in cooler weather. It is also highly resistant to harmful microbes! Seriously, is there anything hemp fibre can’t do?
One of the few downsides of using hemp fibre for fabric production is that it is actually quite expensive to purchase. This is because the demand for hemp fibre cannot be satisfied by the fewer than 1 million acres-supply of hemp. Hemp fibre may also require the use of bleach due to its natural odor and naturally yellowish color. When combined with other fabrics, hemp-hybrid material is less biodegradable than hemp fabric alone.
However, the sustainability of hemp outweighs these few cons in that hemp fibre produces less water, zero waste, zero chemicals, and it is carbon and soil positive. So, if you’re wanting to live low impact and wear eco-friendly fashion, avoid the fast fabric approach and opt for natural hemp products, many of which you can find directly on Staiy’s site.
Have you ever looked at the pile of wrapping paper waste on Christmas day and wonder how can you make gift wrapping more sustainable? We've collected five sustainable gift wrapping ideas that you can use to make this year's holiday more eco-friendly!
While giving nicely wrapped gifts is one of the most special parts of Christmas, this tradition generates a lot of waste. Conventional wrapping paper is usually made out of cheap materials, coated in plastic, making it impossible to recycle. Wrapping made out of 100% paper is not a solution either. Making paper means we have to cut out trees, not to mention the water usage. 1 tonne of paper requires 2,700 liters of water! So you might wonder, how can you make this Christmas more sustainable? Don't worry, we got your back! Here are five of our favorite alternative gift-wrapping ideas.
1. Wrap your gifts in fabric
Using fabrics is a great green alternative to paper. It is also very practical. Remember struggling with wrapping odd-shaped presents in traditional wrapping paper? That won´t be an issue anymore. Fabrics are pliable and so can cover any item of any shape without being torn. Look around your house and see if you have any old big pieces of fabric, or you can buy some at craft shops. While it might get a bit more pricey than just getting a roll of wrapping paper, don´t forget that fabric is reusable, which means you can use the same pieces next year too.
2. Old newspapers and magazines
Another item you already have at home and is great for wrapping are newspapers and magazines. Even if you don´t read physical copies anymore, ask around in your friend group or neighborhood if they have some old papers. If you get some Christmas editions, it's even better. This is a great way to upcycle newspapers which no one needs anymore, and it will also make an interesting and colorful pile of gifts under your tree.
3. Reusable boxes
Let's not forget, we can always choose to put our gifts in boxes. This alternative is practical because we can not only reuse them as gift wrapping again, but they can be repurposed as storage space too. If you decide to choose this option, it is not necessary to buy lots of new boxes. Instead, look around and see if you have any old shoe boxes or amazon parcels in your house. You can use them as they are, or cover and decorate them with some paper.
4. Use biodegradable wrapping paper
For those of you who don't want to give up the fun Christmas designs, there is a solution. There are now many biodegradable wrapping papers on the market. These wrapping papers are often made out of recycled materials, and being biodegradable means you can dispose of them easily, without having to worry you will damage the environment. In case these are not sold in your area, you can simply order online. Some brands that sell compostable wrapping paper are Wrappily, Uncommon Goods, or Re-Wrapped. If you are looking for a cheaper option, you can always choose to buy some plain recycled brown paper. It is not only environmentally friendly but you can decorate it as you wish.
5. Keep it simple: gift wrap without tape
Wrapping our gifts with no tape will not only make it more sustainable but better looking too. There are many no-tape wrapping techniques which we can learn on the internet. Especially now that Christmas is coming up, more and more wrapping ideas come up on our social media feeds. Though these innovative techniques might require some practice, learning new ways to wrap presents is a fun activity, not to mention you can show off your new talent to your friends and family.
Preparing gifts is an exciting and special time. We hope these ideas will allow you to enjoy this year´s preparations in more sustainable ways, and we´re wishing you all a merry Christmas!
Staiy explores regenerative agriculture through the eyes of Dan Hunter, featured on Netflix’s second season of Down to Earth, and explains why regenerative agriculture matters now more than ever.
If you’re interested in sustainability, watching Netflix while bundled up on your couch with a glass of wine, and teen-heartthrob-turned-adult-heartthrob Zac Efron, the show Down to Earth is for you. The actor travels around the world with wellness expert Darin Olien to find healthy, sustainable ways to live. Season two was released on November 11th, and it takes viewers all across Australia.
This week, Staiy was inspired by episode two, where Zac and Darin got down and dirty as they explored a natural approach to farming through regenerative agriculture and organic food production. In the episode, they met with Chef Dan Hunter, owner of Brae, and ate some of the most lush looking dishes. Located an hour and a half southwest of Melbourne, Brae is a net-zero boutique bed and breakfast and award winning restaurant surrounded by a 30 acre organic farm. It is hailed as “world class, farm to table dining experience,” and one of the best restaurants in Australia, and is only possible through regenerative agriculture.
According to the episode, RegAg is a “natural approach to farming that yields more nutritious food for consumers and sequesters carbon in the ground for healthier soil and a better planet.” Soil is the most important piece of the puzzle, and RegAg seeks to manage the soil sustainably, examining things like how crops are best planted and how animals are best raised. There are three core principles: 1, no chemicals or pesticides, 2, no tilling/minimal soil disturbance, and 3, crop diversity and cover crops. Regenerative Agriculture seeks to create a sustainable food system.
Understanding successful sustainable food systems is key to transforming the way the world thinks about ecological and social justice. Making food systems more sustainable from the production to consumption process furthers the goals of food sovereignty, economic stability, and mitigation of climate change and other shocks to the food system. They afford various levels of protection that the current system of industrial agriculture can not.
Why did the need for regenerative agriculture arise? At the most basic level, the current system of industrial agriculture that dominates global food production is completely unsustainable socially and ecologically. Industrial agriculture requires the use of fossil fuels, water, and topsoil at unsustainable rates, and contributes to various forms of environmental degradation, including air and water pollution, soil depletion, diminishing biodiversity, and fish die-offs. Meat production and factory-style animal farming are extremely resource intensive, and generate environmental and public health crises due to pollution from high concentrations of animal waste and the pervasive use of antibiotics. Meat consumption is tied to many chronic, degenerative diseases, and the pesticides that this form of agriculture necessitates are associated with elevated cancer risks, endocrine disruption, and reproductive dysfunction.
According to Jon Vandermeer and Ivette Perfecto in their article “Complex Traditions: Intersecting Theoretical Frameworks in Agroecological Research,” industrial agriculture has perpetuated a plethora of issues related to human and environmental health. For 90% of human existence, we were hunters and gatherers using substances directly from the earth. Agriculture enabled a more efficient method of getting energy and promoted a massive increase in population and time for leisure. We began “a grand manipulation of nature, but were necessarily constrained by ecological laws and could only produce within the constraints of those laws.” For a long time, humans practiced this “natural systems agriculture,” but beginning at the advent of the 20th century and reaching a peak after World War II, we forced Industrial Revolution tools into agriculture:
We automated, regularized, commoditized, monetarized, and chemicalized the process of generating
food. What had been done in industry was now done in agriculture; human labor and ecological
processes were replaced with fossil fuels. We applied, in myriad ways, industrial energy to the process
of producing food. In the end, and largely as an unintended consequence… we transformed the system
that made our acquisition of energy more efficient, to a system that effectively used more energy than it
produced—from an energy producing system to an energy consuming system.
Not only did we industrialize food production, but food consumption as well - humans created a processed food revolution and became the ultimate consumers. The environmental crisis created and perpetuated by the industrial agricultural system within the overall context of climate change are too large to ignore, especially when placed side by side with the fact that there has been no increase in global food security. 842 million people are estimated to be suffering from chronic hunger, regularly not getting enough food.
The 2009 International Assessment of Agricultural Knowledge, Science and Technology for Development (IAASTD) publication stated that Industrial agriculture, though it drove achievements after WWII in the Green Revolution of the 60s, needs to be revised. The challenges of today are such that “business as usual is no longer an option.”
Regenerative agriculture is an alternative approach to “the interrelated global problems of hunger, rural poverty, and sustainable development.”
Dan Hunter has created an aspirational business. From production to consumption, he and his team ensure zero net emissions. What does this look like?
Environment - the farm doesn’t use any chemical fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides in order to improve soil health and land regeneration. They have planted over 1,000 native species of plants and trees, which increases biodiversity in the ecosystem, helps flora and fauna thrive, and reduces their carbon footprint. Brae is a water-efficient property, using 160,000 liter tanks to capture rain for washing, cooking, and drinking in the suites and restaurant. There are three dams on site that serve as irrigation for the crops. Hunter’s farm generates 17 megawatt hours of solar electricity annually. It’s estimated that the solar energy offsets 1.34 tonnes of carbon each month.
A key component of regenerative agriculture is biodiversity, and all of the different things produced on site cultivate a nutrient rich soil. Their closed loop composting system allows food waste from the restaurant to return to the earth. It’s taken from the restaurant and turned into a carbon-rich mulch that regenerates the soil and allows abundant crops to flourish. Good soil is needed for carbon sequestration to happen, and that’s what makes Brae not just sustainable, but actually regenerative. The compost process keeps about 100 kilos of waste out of the landfill every day, and we know that compost can’t do anything good from the bottom of a landfill. 100% of waste water is processed on site and dispersal water is used for irrigation. Brae reduces waste by being a low-waste kitchen, pickling and fermenting unused fruits and veggies, and eliminating single use vessels and restaurant items. The dinnerware that serves guests is made by local artisans using ash from their wood fired oven and clay from the dam on property, and excess clay and ash are used by potter Colin Hopkins to create dining room sculptures and by Victorian ceramicists Cone 11 to create dinnerware. They repurpose menu paper as notepads and recycle all glass and paper. The property has four electric vehicle charging stations for guest and staff use. They use compostable trash liners, receive deliveries of milk from a local biodynamic farm in reusable 20-liter stainless steel pails, and clean and sanitize rooms with chemical free products. Linens come from sustainably-sourced cotton and towels and robes are given to a recycling program when they are no longer usable. Accommodations are carbon neutral, including six recently built suites with passive solar design principles that “feature recycled materials, solar energy, double glazing, harvested rainwater and a worm farm biological waste treatment system, resulting in a building with zero net emissions.” In total, the establishment grows 90% of what is served in the restaurant. By staying small, Brae puts less stress on the environment and soil, and they’ve even designed the property to encourage people to connect with the land that feeds them with walking paths after finishing their meal.
Sourcing - the organic food at Brae is grown “without the harmful chemical, transport or fossil fuel inputs of the industrial food system.” They meet their suppliers and actually go to their properties to ensure that they want to partner up, collaborating only with other sustainable growers who are committed to animal welfare and future land viability. The kitchen bakes bread whose ingredients are grown, harvested, milled and baked onsite. Free range meat from partner farms is hormone and antibiotic-free, and comes from small, independent family operations that let their animals roam free. Olives are pressed for oil and they even make their own seasonal beers. Brae uses cuts of wild-caught and ethically farmed fish that would normally be thrown away, making dishes with under-appreciated species. They know the farmers they work with and give them fair pay on time, every time. Hunter sources specialty products (coffee, tea, chocolate) from fair-trade intermediaries.
Society - Brae is a community oriented business. Staff have Sundays off, close two times a year for leave periods for everyone, and give Christmas and New Year off. Staff have access to formal career development systems and a professional coach delivering regular culture, wellness and team building sessions. They give over $10,000 every year to education, sport, and charity organizations. They raise money for local schools and bushfire relief efforts, and support a revolving art program that helps emerging and local artists and artisans. They give pathways to work for disadvantaged youth and unemployed people in the area who haven’t worked in a long time. Hunter’s farm is recognized by the Sustainable Restaurant Association UK and World’s 50 Best Restaurants for its sustainability efforts. Food Made Good has rated Brae amongst the top Sustainable Restaurants in the World for three years: 2019 93% 3 Stars, 2018 87% 3 Stars. 2017 82% 3 Stars.
At the end of the day, we are eating what’s in the soil. Think about that sentence - the nutrients in what you eat are only as good as the soil they come from. Dan Hunter’s success comes from his ability to create dishes (that can include up to 60 plants that are grown right outside the dining area) that are as beautiful as they are delicious. Hunter explains that “a farm is not just that flat place with no trees, with soil getting turned over - a healthy farm, a healthy environment, has an ecosystem that helps for organic food production.”
Hunter describes his Brae like this in the episode: “It’s a small restaurant doing small numbers, showing what you can do with small acreage, and produces quite a lot of diverse, quality food.” It is a testament that regenerative agriculture can not only produce healthy and delicious food, but support a thriving business in today’s world.
As an aspirational example of a sustainable food system, Hunter’s creation shows that we can respond to the social and ecological issues associated with intensified industrial agriculture in a way that is actually prosperous. Sustainable food systems integrate research, education, action, and change, bringing sustainability to all parts of the food system, and Brae is a perfect working example of this.
Regenerative agriculture can help us realize social sustainability as well as ecological sustainability. In 2013, V. Ernesto Méndez, Christopher M. Bacon, and Roseann Cohen contributed to the Journal of Sustainable Agriculture with their article Agroecology as a Transdisciplinary, Participatory, and Action-Oriented Approach, in which they described how sustainable agriculture was not just about plant and animal communities, food web interactions, and conservation biology in agricultural landscapes like many suggested in the 70s, but that it essentially involved humans. Sustainability in the food system can not be separated from social justice, and we need to view agriculture as a complex social-ecological system. Agriculture can actually respond to social and cultural issues of the dominant industrial agriculture system and integrate transdisciplinary, participatory, and action-oriented approaches and critically engage with political-economic issues that affect agro-food systems. Brae’s approach is something that should be encouraged on a wider scale. Better policy should provide incentives for small farmers and ensure a decent living for everyone in the production to consumption process, from growing, harvesting, processing, packaging, transporting, marketing, to disposal. We need to legislate a movement away from the systems in place - systems that create crops unable to adapt to changing climatic conditions, promote human unhealth and food deserts, and breed pandemics in massive animal factories. We need real investment in sustainable operations that reduce emissions, soil losses, and water pollution. Agricultural policy has the ability to address both justice and sustainability, as the two issues are really the same.
We know that industrial agriculture can not realize these aspirations. It is antithetical to the needs of the environment and people. Going forward, we need to listen to the farmers, people of color, indigenous communities, and farmworkers who have been telling us how to remake the food system. Remodeling the food system requires work, but there are many ways to get involved. We must remember the inseparability of sustainability and justice in our strategies for transformation.
While it is surprising that my personal childhood crush, Zac Efron, is pointing us to this conversation, it’s also exciting that more and more influential people are invested in changing the world. Finding healthy, sustainable ways to live is something we must do, and people like Chef Dan Hunter are the changemakers we need to look to.
“Organic cotton is cotton that is produced and certified to organic agricultural standards”, according to aboutorganiccotton.org (an international non-profit organisation committed to the responsible expansion of textile sustainability), which also points out that “organic cotton farming does not allow the use of toxic chemicals or GMOs”. Cotton itself, however, sports a number of negative impacts on the environment. Let’s get into details on the differences between cotton and organic cotton.
According to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), “cotton’s most prominent environmental impacts result from the use of agrochemicals (especially pesticides), the consumption of water, and the conversion of habitat to agricultural use”. The aforementioned have critical adverse effects “on major ecosystems such as the Aral Sea in Central Asia, the Indus Delta in Pakistan and the Murray Darling River in Australia”.
The areas of impact are three: soil, pollution and water. Due to the fact that cotton is the most used natural fibre, the soil area dedicated to the cultivation of this crop has been “depleted and degraded” throughout the last 70 years. Habitat destruction is close behind, as the erosion renders the soil unfruitful and in need of ‘replacement’. The pollution referred to in the context of cotton is that of agrochemicals. Not only do pesticides have an unfavourable effect on the soil and water, it threatens the health of biodiversity in the surrounding areas. Furthermore, the use of pesticides also raises concern for the health of farm workers and nearby populations. Lastly, according to WWF, it has to be noted that 2,700 litres of water are required to be able to cultivate enough cotton for the production of one single t-shirt!
So how does organic cotton differ from conventional cotton? According to Vogue Australia, it uses 91% less water than regular cotton does, as well as produces fewer greenhouse gas emissions. In their interview based article, they speak with Liesl Truscot, Textile Exchange’s director of Europe and materials strategy, who shares the following: “the majority of organic cotton [is grown on] small-scale farms, which tend to be rainfed rather than irrigated [...] and because you’re not using synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, you don’t need to use as much water”. Unfortunately, according to aboutorganiccotton.org, less than one percent of the current cotton production is organic. A 2011 Water Footprint study points out that the cultivation of organic cotton also reduces water pollution by 98% since organic farmers avoid harmful chemicals such as pesticides.
Textile Exchange further states that organic cotton creates 46% less greenhouse gas emissions, and Vogue Australia adds that, “By virtue of being fertiliser- and pesticide-free, the soil also acts as a ‘carbon sink’, absorbing CO2 from the atmosphere”. Another exciting aspect of pesticide-free farming is that the soil stays fertile and does not erode and degrade as quickly as it does when fertilised with harsh agrochemicals. However, as Truscot mentions, “nothing’s perfect”, and some other research claim that scaling the production of organic cotton could actually lead to greater greenhouse gas emissions in comparison to non-organic cotton.
Another red flag worth keeping an eye out for is greenwashing. Words like organic and eco-friendly are some of the most commonly used to mask over the realities of a product. The cultivation of cotton is not the only area in the supply chain that has negative impacts on the people and the environment, but rather, the entire process, from dying to distributions, can be harmful. These processes differ from company to company, which is why it is imperative to check for organic cotton certifications and shop from ethical brands that champion transparency and intersectional environmentalism.
One such certification is the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). It was developed “to define world-wide recognised requirements for organic textiles. From the harvesting of the raw materials, environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing to labelling, textiles certified to GOTS provide a credible assurance to the consumer”, according to the organisation. With a long standing track record of accountability, the GOTS is recognised as a trustworthy certification that represents sustainability throughout the supply chain.
Thankfully, the internet is our friend. An abundance of resources can be found that serve as guides in drawing the line between the greenwashed and the eco-friendly. Although organic cotton has its own drawbacks, it remains the best alternative to conventional cotton.
Planning your next vacation in Portugal? Green Destinations has a great collection of eco-friendly locations for the perfect sustainable adventure. Here are some details about the nonprofit and its list of sustainable tourist spots in Portugal.
Green Destinations is a nonprofit organization that certifies sustainable locations over the world based on their thorough and unique criteria. They place substantial importance on local communities and their contribution to sustainable tourism. They also conduct training so that cities, towns, and villages can earn from tourism in a way that is environmentally, economically, and socially sustainable.
Today, we’re going to explore the green destinations in Portugal, the winner of the ITB Berlin Best of Europe Award for ecotourism in 2019, which has many cities and towns representing its unique culture, food, beaches, and activities.
Here are 5 such wonderful sustainable locations for your next holiday in Portugal.
Sintra is a village beautified by verdant mountains and the blue sea. It is just 30 minutes away from Lisbon. The Capital of Romanticism in Portugal, Sintra was classified as a Cultural Landscape and a World Heritage site due to its mesmerizing history. This is reflected in many historical monuments like Palácio Nacional da Pena, Quinta da Regaleira, Palácio Nacional de Sintra, the Castelo dos Mouros and museums that adorn its map.
But how did it become a green destination? The answer is in its rivers: Sintra’s Native Fish Project. The project encouraged learning and awareness in schools about native fish species in the rivers and monitored their population. These rivers and streams now act as a protection and conservation area for the fish. This makes Sintra a sustainable tourism hub and perfect for your eco-friendly vacation.
Another city with a rich history, Lagos brings together culture and arts through an array of events on music, dance, theater, gastronomy, literature, and nature. Truly being at the intersection of cultures, Lagos is almost equidistant from Lisbon and Seville, Spain. Lagos is also known for its natural beauty because of the Barão de São João National Forest, Costa d’Oiro (Gold Coast), and Ponta da Piedade (confluence of land and sea), all of which can be explored on cycle or foot.
Maintaining these picture-perfect natural heritages requires focused efforts. For this, the Municipality of Lagos has taken steps for the rehabilitation of the forest and the coast and promoting entrepreneurial awareness for their sustainability. More than 60% of Lagos’ territory is a natural conservation area. A campaign called Lagos in the Summer Wave informs its residents of the ecological problems and small solutions to tackle them during the busy tourist season. Lagos brings together community welfare and sustainable development to be your favorite green destination.
Famous for its fine golden sand beaches and two thermal rivers, Torres Vedras promotes slow tourism through its culture. The museums, interpretation centers, libraries, galleries, and the theater provide year-long organized activities and programs which emphasize the local, authentic experience. Its carnival is renowned for being the most authentic Portuguese carnival in the country.
Torres Vedras imbibes sustainable tourism through these events and by encouraging soft mobility or alternative transportation. The local authorities have also made efforts to rehabilitate Castro do Zambujal, a human dwelling site dating back to 5000 years. However, the most innovative of their efforts was the conversion of a slaughterhouse and its surrounding area into a vibrant Arts and Creativity Centre. Torres Vedras has utilized its creative and cultural capital to become an ecotourism spot.
The archipelago of Azores was created by volcanic activity, making it perfect for ecological tourism. Nature truly nurtures you in Azores as you can relax in the natural carbonic water, waterfalls, and iron water pools. Golf lovers can also enjoy playing at one of the most environmentally friendly courses in the world.
Azores maintains this scenic beauty and protects its marine biodiversity through renewable energy and rationed use of water. But the most successful story of sustainable tourism in Azores is that of the model island of Graciosa. The island uses solar and wind power that can supply electricity for 24 hours consecutively. Despite the popularity of sustainable tourism in Azores, it has maintained low urbanization which only adds to a pristine experience.
Cascais, like Azores, offers many nature-related activities like water sports and golf. It has a mild climate all year round which is why the Portuguese royal family chose it as their summer residence. The region became a respite for spies like Ian Fleming during World War II, turning it into a prominent seaside resort for foreigners. Aside from the sea, Cascais’ main attraction is also the Sintra-Cascais National Park which combines a variety of landscapes with dunes, high cliffs, forests, and lagoons.
The National Park is also home to many animal species including the rare Bonelli eagle and peregrine falcon. After a 2018 forest fire, the government’s quick actions on assessment and fundraising for restoration with local collaboration have made Cascais much less ecologically vulnerable. The nature-based tourism that you can indulge in Cascais now protects the region even for the future.
These were just a few of the top eco-friendly vacation spots in Portugal. Green Destinations has a diverse list of locations around the world. You can put together the perfect itinerary with their resources for a sustainable and enjoyable trip to Portugal this holiday season!
Biophilia, which explains our inherent positive connection to the natural world as humans, is emerging in design concepts. What are the results of this, and what larger conclusions can we draw?
There is something euphoric about the feeling you get when you’re surrounded by nature. As human life becomes increasingly dependent on technology, we spend so much more time inside. Some studies estimate that up to 93% of our time is spent either indoors or in a car. It seems like there’s a tendency for people to force themselves outside, or to treat being in nature like it has to be accompanied by some activity to provide benefits. Many feel like going outdoors requires a physical milestone - you have to finish a long hike, go skiing, kayak the distance of the lake, or run a mile on the beach - to really profit from the outdoors. According to biophilic design, that’s not true.
Let’s not get ahead of ourselves. Biophilia, which inspires biophilic design, is the “love of life or living systems.” The ancient Greek roots for living things, bio, and philos, which signifies a love of living things and the natural world, collide to try and encapsulate our inherent positive connection to the natural world as humans. Biophilia is a tendency and desire to commune with nature, and reflects our affinity for other life forms.
You guessed it - biophilic design uses the natural world as a source of creative inspiration. It seeks to enhance the industrial architecture we live, learn, and work in with natural elements. In the words of Interface, “by consciously including nature in interior or architectural design, we are unconsciously reconnecting, bringing the great outdoors into our constructed world.”
Biophilic design features elements that directly reference nature that has helped humans survive. This could look like green walls, wood, stone, textured carpets, cork, draping plants, water features, big windows, light, and organic forms and silhouettes. Even fans that move the air, diffusers with plant oils, or nature-like sounds can have the necessary immersive feeling.
Most of human history has required adaptive response to the natural world, so elements that have contributed to our health and wellbeing throughout evolution are the focal point. Basically, your office adding big fish tanks lining the walls or decorative tumbleweed artfully placed in a sand-filled table centerpiece will not necessarily have the desired effect. Biophilic design relies on a pervasive sensory experience. You must be immersed, you must be engaged, you must be integrated into an ecosystem that does not feel artificial. According to Metropolis, “the effectiveness of biophilic design depends on interventions that are connected, complementary, and integrated within the overall environment rather than being isolated or transient.”
This design style is often called “the future of design”, and highly sought-after for architecture, interior design, and urban planning. It seeks to cultivate health and productivity through focusing on aspects of the natural world, but can we quantify the benefits?
They say you can’t buy happiness, but a really well designed space might be a good start. In corporate offices, worker performance and productivity is obviously affected by poor health. There is a direct correlation between office design and employees that report better well-being and overall performance. Interface says, “Even simple changes to incorporate nature in the workplace can have a huge impact on how employees feel when they come to work, and how happy, creative and productive they feel when they are working.” Biophilic climes can reduce stress, blood pressure, and heart rate, and improve cognitive function, creativity, and overall mood. Studies report increased rates in learning anywhere from 20-23%, boost creativity by 15%, and can result in a 22% decrease of the use of pain medication. Biophilic design can make people feel truly cared for.
It’s very exciting to imagine the new urban living centers, schools, workplaces, hospitals, and areas where we spend most of our time that Biophilic design could alter. But the topic points us to an interesting truth - that our increasing separation from nature is actively harming us. We need to relearn that just being and existing in nature is valuable in itself. You don’t always have to go outside to “accomplish” something. You can feel good about just sitting with nature. Looking at the ocean. Meditating in a park. Breathing in the scent of the soon approaching winter.
The spaces we inhabit have power, and while it’s important to note the psychological and physiological dimensions of this, it’s also important to take time in nature with no expectations and standards you must live up to. Let the Earth do what she was meant to do for you outside, and if you have the opportunity to let her into your indoor space, even better.
Struggling to find recipes that make you look forward to your lunch break? Look no more! Here’s a list of 5 plant-based office lunch ideas that are sustainable, tasty, and easy to make.
Office lunch: the time you get to relax and recollect your energy. There is but one issue. Packing lunch is often the last thing we want to do. This means we find ourselves buying pre-packed lunches or eating out at restaurants around our office, spending unnecessarily. Not to mention, pre-packaged lunches come in lots of wrapping materials. More and more places now make sure that their wrapping is recyclable, but why create waste if we can reduce it instead? Bringing your office lunch with you has many benefits: it is cheaper, often healthier and a lot more sustainable.
A plant-based lunch is healthy, yummy, and filled with important nutrients. Plants have vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can support your immune system and reduce inflammation. Unprocessed plant foods are also high in fiber, which supports the health of your gut, making sure you can sufficiently absorb nutrients. Having a plant-based diet- or even just some meals - is also better for the environment! Meat and other animal products are known for having some of the highest water footprints, while fruits and vegetables are the least water consuming foods.
1. Hummus veggie wrap:
Wraps are truly versatile, fun and you can eat them on the go. This plant -based version is a great example of a good wrap, and what's even better, there’s no cooking involved l! Start with a whole-wheat tortilla for some good carbs. Then, choose your favorite hummus and spread it on the wrap in a thick layer. For some protein make sure you add in some beans - you can use any kind of canned beans of your liking. Also don't forget to add avocado for some healthy fat. Last but not least, pack on the vegetables, and there you go. This is not only quick and simple, but thanks to all these ingredients this wrap will leave you energized for the whole afternoon!
2. Buffalo Chickpea Salad Sandwich
We can't leave sandwiches off a lunch idea list. But don't worry, this is not the usual, boring sandwich you might remember from your school days. To make the filling, take some chickpeas - canned works perfectly fine - and mash them up. Cut up some vegetables into tiny pieces. Carrot, celery, green onions and bell peppers work well with this recipe, or you can just use the vegetables you find in your fridge. Then, take some plain hummus and mix it with the chickpeas and veggie pieces. You can also replace hummus with some vegan mayo. Perhaps the most important ingredient is the hot sauce, so don't leave it out! You can also add some salt and some additional spices like paprika, garlic or onion powder for a fuller taste. Spread this amazing mixture on the bread and top it with some lettuce or tomatoes.
3. Butternut Squash & Bell Pepper Soup
If you are looking for an autumn dish that is filling and warm, this one’s for you. You will need some butternut squash, four bell peppers, onion, garlic, oil, and a vegetable stock cube. First, cut all the veggies into pieces, place them on a tray with some olive oil, and roast them in the oven for around 20 minutes. This will help bring out all the nice flavors from the ingredients. When ready, place them into a large saucepan, add water and the vegetable stock cube and cook until tender. All you need to do now is blend it into a smooth, creamy soup.
4. Mediterranean Quinoa Pasta Salad
This recipe definitely brings back the flavors of summer! First, cook the pasta and the quinoa (this will add some extra protein to your dish). Wash and chop your chosen vegetables and place them in a bowl with the cooked ingredients. Try using veggies such as cucumbers, bell peppers, tomatoes, onions and olives to make your salad as colorful as possible. Next, prepare your dressing. All you need is some vegan yogurt, lemon juice, garlic and some spices of your choice. Whisk it together and pour it over the salad bowl. Store it in the fridge and serve chilled. This recipe is not only tasty but can be stored for days, so you can make it during the weekend and bring it with you to the office whenever you like.
5. Mason Jar Instant Noodles
The best thing about this meal is how easy it is to travel with, and you can meal prep for the whole week! Take a jar and place the seasoning on the bottom of it. If you feel like having a spicy soup, add 1 tsp of soy sauce, 1 tsp of Sriracha chili-garlic hot sauce and some lime juice. To make a miso soup base, add 1 tsp of soy sauce and 1 tsp of miso paste. Whichever version you choose, don´t forget to add a vegetable stock cube to it for a fuller, stronger taste. Then, layer in the vegetables of your liking. Carrots, cabbage, bean sprouts and green onions are some good options. Finish it off by adding your rice noodles, making sure they stay dry. You can also add a few pieces of tofu for extra protein. We recommend topping it off with some fresh parsley or coriander. Just close the jar, and place it in the fridge. When ready to eat, fill the jar with boiling water, stir it carefully and place the lid on. Leave it for 5 minutes for the noodles to cook, and there you have it. Fresh, healthy and warm.
Trans activist Nayyab Ali fights tirelessly for transgender rights in Pakistan. Let’s learn more about her journey and what she has done for Pakistan’s trans community.
Pakistan as a country is fortright about its unwillingness to fight for LGBTQ+ rights with anti-gay penalties still existing in their laws. Laws such as the Penal Code 1860, prohibit any kind of homosexual activity with threat of a maximum life sentence. At the same time, bills have been passed to allow the Hijra, or Pakistani third gender, to be recognized on legal documents. This creates a dizzying reality for Pakistan’s LGBTQ+ community where laws contradict each other, and further contradict social realities. Beyond this backdrop, LGBTQ+ activists like Nayyab Ali are fighting for change.
Nayyab Ali is a trans human rights defender who is co-Chair of the Pakistan Alliance for Ending Violence Against Women and Girls and heavily involved in the Khawaja Sira Community Centre in Okara, which provides vocational training, life skills education and driving classes for the transgender community. She is also working as a Victim Support Officer and acts as the head of the Transgender Protection Unit of Islamabad police. In politics, she has been leading advocacy for the approval of Pakistan’s National Transgender Rights Protection Policy and has been an important whistleblower of anti-trans attacks in Pakistan.
Ali was inspired to fight for trans rights in Pakistan after she suffered an acid attack and began to dedicate her life to the transgender movement from the age of 17. As a transgender woman and activist, life has not been easy for Ali. She has endured many ongoing violences throughout her life. Recently, she has spoken against the Ramna police department in Islamabad when a policeman threatened her with a gun while she was trying to assist another trans woman who had been attacked on the streets of Markaz. Nayyab Ali was simply asking police officers to refrain from using derogatory language against the victim, when a police officer pointed a gun at her saying that if she spoke another word she would be “shot like a dog”.
In 2009 a bill was passed allowing Pakistan’s third gender, otherwise known as Hijra or Khwaja Sira, to be included on identity cards. Although this seems progressive and a step in the right direction, it does not accurately sum up the real experiences of trans life in Pakistan. Pakistan is officially accepting of the third gender, or Hijra way, but this is moreso due to pre-colonial, Pakistani culture and tradition than it is to do with trans rights. In Pakistani culture, the Hijra is an ancient, non-gender conforming group present in South Asian cultures. Within the culture it is believed that they are a godly manifestation on earth, which is why their existence might be respected in legislative ways that preserve a way of culture, yet also why the group are still so heavily discriminated against.
Ali founded the Khawaja Sira Community Centre where members of the Khawaja Sira could come together and learn the Quran in a safe environment. It also doubles as a shelter where transgender women can stay if they are left with nowhere to go. The work of trans activist Nayyab Ali is not only highly commendable, but inspiring and courageous for the immense danger she puts herself in as a trans woman in a very transphobic Pakistan. As both a founder of the Hijrah community centre and victim support officer of the Islambad police, Ali is dedicated to creating safe spaces for the trans community in all aspects of society, both legislative and social. In her work with the police force, she is the direct mediator between police and trans people, being the trans person’s first point of contact, which allows them both safety and assurance. In her work at the Khwaja Sira Community Centre, she provides education, care, and refuge, making her both protector and provider of a safe place for the trans community.
Ecoolska is one of the first phygital sustainable fashion brands based in Portugal. They create eco-friendly physical clothes as well as digital fashion and NFTs, giving life to the possibility of wearing sustainable innovative clothes in real life and being creative in the digital world.
In 2020, life for Olska Green completely changed. She started a new journey during quarantine, living between Montenegro and Portugal and taking inspiration from the nature and balanced lifestyles she saw in both places. She began looking at production in a different way, and started to feel that a lot of clothing is completely overproduced and unnecessary. Green, the then founder of ECOOLSKA, decided to meet this challenge with a new kind of eco-friendly, sustainable brand.
ECOOLSKA was born organically. The Olska brand team gained great experience in the production of high-quality clothing, the creation of current design, sales and implementation of collections. The Olska team supports a sustainable lifestyle philosophy, and has implemented eco-friendly habits in their daily routine since 2017, gradually shifting towards environmental friendliness. They decided early on to produce stylish garments with the right fabrics.
They firmly believe that fashion should exist in an environment of mutual benefit and honesty, without harming nature and people. This is reflected in ECOOLSKA clothing, lovingly crafted from organic, biodegradable or recycled fabrics. The designs are meant to stay relevant and serve you for several seasons. Their fabric Dyeing and processing is safe and non-toxic, part of a zero-waste production process. The entire path from material procurement and product tailoring to logistics is transparent. Also, throughout all 11 years of its existence, Olska’s brands adhered to the policy of reasonable, not mass production.
“The ECOOLSKA brand will be an active participant in this titanic shift, which aims to stop the race for speed and volume in the production of cheap clothing, through the exploitation of human labor and the depletion of natural resources. We are for a responsible fashion industry where dignity at work and a safe environment are the standard, not the exception”, she says.
Sustainable fashion today makes extensive use of innovative technologies and strives for absolutely safe production for the environment. All these steps are aimed at transforming the existing fashion, slowing down the pace of consumption, shifting the focus from ego to eco. ECOOLSKA shows us it’s possible to run a profitable business in order to live in a prosperous, developed country and contribute to the development of the economy of our region. With these strong convictions, they aspire to drive conscious consumer behavior forward and explain the wonderful advantages of virtual space. They want to make it possible to wear sustainable innovative clothes in real life and be creative in the digital world. The phygital era is here, implementing the synergy of physical and digital worlds to our life! ECOOLKSA is one of the first brands to create digital twins of the physical collection for virtual avatars in the Metaverse.
ECOOLSKA’s concept is one where sustainable and innovative Phygital products reduce overconsumption and overproduction in real life. They’ve gone a step further, making fashion happy and not harmful for the environment not only in real life but also in virtual life.
Also, they support and develop the cyclical model of the modern fashion industry by producing with a minimum of natural resources, providing decent wages, showing transparency in the choice of biodegradable or recyclable fabrics and accessories and in production (where, how and by whom the clothes are made). They also educate on how to buy consciously without cluttering the wardrobe and the planet, stop impulse purchases, sell with fair pricing, and extend the lifespan of clothes through high quality tailoring and fabric.
To protect the environment, ECOOLSKA:
- refuses to use plastic packaging - dresses come in fabric bags;
- select only trusted suppliers with verified certificates for their fabrics;
- use sustainable, innovative and recycled fabrics;
- produce high-quality clothes that will be relevant for many years;
- create upcycling collections from used clothes, give clothes a second life, and organize collection and delivery for those in need;
- support waste-free production by transferring leftover fabric to a homeless shelter for needlework;
- donate part of the proceeds to environmental projects: forest planting, garbage collection, eco-initiatives and environmental education;
- do not release many collections, supporting responsible production without overconsumption;
- carefully organize their supply chain to reduce CO2 emissions from transportation.
The materials chosen for their garments are organic and recycled cotton, recycled viscose and natural organic flax. For their latest collection, Olska Green was inspired by the Sargasso Sea that is located within the Atlantic Ocean known as the only sea without a land boundary. Sargasso sea provides a home to an amazing variety of marine species, but first of all - different types of algae. There are no flashy colors in ECOOLSKA collections, only muted tones. The most important ones are sand color, sea color and grass color, also reflected in ECOOLSKA’s logo. Three uneven circles symbolize the three components of a sustainable development: economy, people, environment.
Let's discover together their pieces.
Comfy eco-friendly shorts with a soft feel are made with Lyocell (74%), Recycled Polyester (22%) and Elastane (4%). In this product we use LENZING™️ Lyocell fiber that is known for its natural comfort and environmentally responsible production process. It delivers quality, performance and versatility! This fiber has been certified as compostable and biodegradable under industrial, home, soil and marine conditions, thus it can fully revert back to nature. LENZING™️ fibers are made of cellulose, the core component of all plants on earth, more than 99 percent of the wood comes from sustainable forestry. It is certified or controlled according to FSC® and PEFC™. In addition to the ecological and sustainable properties, our suits offer: softness, comfort, dyeing quality, breathability and easy care. All our products are made locally in Portugal.
If you’re a conscious fashion consumer who cares about sustainability, chances are you’ve heard about green-washing, the problem where companies make people believe they’re environmentally responsible. Staiy’s done some research on the other end of the spectrum, green-hushing. What does it mean and why is it spread among companies?
Companies are becoming more climate-aware. They’re investing more to reach their net-zero targets despite the shaky economic situation and they have ambitious timelines and science-based plans to back up their journey into going green. But, according to South Pole’s 2022 net-zero report, one in four businesses do not plan to talk about their climate targets. This phenomenon has given rise to something new: green-hushing. So what is green-hushing, and what consequences does it have on the climate-saving mission?
Companies are becoming more climate-aware. They’re investing more to reach their net-zero targets despite the shaky economic situation and they have ambitious timelines and science-based plans to back up their journey into going green. But, according to South Pole’s 2022 net-zero report, one in four businesses do not plan to talk about their climate targets. This phenomenon has given rise to something new: green-hushing. So what is green-hushing, and what consequences does it have on the climate-saving mission?
South Pole surveyed over 1200 companies in 12 different countries, all of which have a dedicated sustainability or corporate social responsibility lead. However, the report shows that nearly a quarter of these businesses (23%) are not willing to publicise their science-based targets and strategies for reaching a net-zero goal.
Not publicising and communicating their measures makes it harder to evaluate and scrutinise them. It also limits the circulation of valuable information that could be useful to other companies. Therefore, it reduces the opportunities for several sectors to work together to decarbonise.
Going dark about their practices gives the impression to the public eye that climate leaders are failing to lead. They should advocate their actions and make them public in order to inspire others to take action. One in four companies is going green, then “going dark” by not unveiling their strategies.
“We see that the surveyed, sustainability-minded businesses are increasingly backing up their targets with science-based emissions reduction milestones, which is absolutely the right approach. But if a quarter today is not coming forward with details on what makes their target credible, could corporate “green-hushing” be spreading? The speed at which we are overshooting our planetary boundaries is mind-blowing. More than ever, we need the companies making headway on sustainability to inspire their peers to make a start. This is impossible if progress is happening in silence,” said Renat Heuberger, CEO of South Pole.
On the other hand, by keeping quiet about their strategies, companies avoid some problems along the way. They may face pushback from stakeholders if they consider their plans not ambitious enough. Companies with climate-friendly measures may also undergo some limitations and restrictions from investors who believe their efforts would undermine profits. For instance, in the United States, the oil-rich southern state of Texas banned its municipalities from doing business with banks having ESG policies against fossil fuels and firearms.
“We can see how firms are maybe caught in the trap between appearing not green enough or too green at the same time. It’s just a matter of who you want to make angry a little bit,” said Professor of Accounting Mirko Heinle to Wharton Business Daily.
Green-hushing and greenwashing raise some concerns about whether companies are really taking efficient actions to protect the climate and reduce their gas emissions or not. Both practices will continue to exist, as one shows ‘deceptive’ environmental campaigns and the other obscures its strategies. However, the biggest concern in this situation is if nobody cares.
You may have heard about the effects of fast fashion on the environment, but did you know that the over-production of cheaply made furniture is also having devastating effects on the environment? Let’s find out about fast furniture and what you can do to break this damaging consumer cycle.
Over the past few years and particularly since the pandemic, there has been a rise in the production and consumption of fast furniture. This has mostly been due to large scale home improvements that were done during lockdown. In this way, the purchase of fast furniture is not only cheaper, but allows people to follow the latest furniture trends at the same time. According to the Office of National Statistics, sales in fast furniture rose by 42% in 2020 and this is because of companies like IKEA that market cheaply made and easy to assemble furniture that can be shipped anywhere in the world.
When we talk about fast furniture we are talking about inexpensive and non-permanent furniture that may only last a couple of years. Although this cheaper alternative may satiate the desire for on trend furniture, it completely goes against the idea of fortitude and sustainability. People are beginning to treat furniture just as they do clothes in the fast fashion industry, viewing both as disposable.
While consumers turn towards the quick, easy, and inexpensive solution to home decor, the environment is turning inside out with findings from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency stating that more than 12 million tonnes of furniture is thrown into landfills every year. Even though this presents a huge problem, the larger problem exists in the manufacturing of fast furniture rather than its disposal. The reason for this is because of the demand for low-cost timber which actively depletes the world’s forests.
Deforestation caused by illegal and unsustainable logging worsens the climate and extinction crises, in turn affecting occupational health, increasing the risk of pandemics, and contributing to biodiversity loss. On top of that, it is near to impossible to recycle fast furniture due to the mix of materials and chemicals that cannot be processed in a recycling facility. For example, particleboard which is a material that is found in a lot of this kind of furniture, cannot be recycled due to its chemical resin and plastic laminate. Ultimately, 80% of this type of furniture goes straight to landfills.
There is a considerable amount of carbon emissions being released in the transportation of materials within the fast furniture industry. It has been reported that if global shipping were a country, it would be the sixth largest producer of greenhouse gas emissions. This becomes even more worrying when we consider the fact that each shipment of fast furniture is shipped twice, once to get the materials and again to deliver the finished product to the consumer, thus doubling its effects on the environment and on environmental problems such as climate change.
Buying sustainable furniture is not all about buying the most expensive items. What is most important for your decision is knowing if the materials used are sourced sustainably. This means buying furniture that is made up of natural materials or materials that can be recycled. What’s more, you certainly do not have to buy new to achieve this.
1. Buy for durability
Ensuring that a piece of furniture is durable allows for less replacing and disposal. Furniture should last a lifetime – not a couple of years.
2. Pick furniture made by sustainable designers
Choosing to buy from a sustainable furniture designer is probably one of the easiest choices you can make. Usually, sustainable designers will list out the ethically sourced materials they have used in their construction because they are proud to admit it. Companies such as Schneid Studio embody this approach to furniture. Check out our article on this brand for ethical and minimal pieces you can purchase now!
3. Can this be recycled?
When purchasing a piece of furniture, it's worth it to consider its recyclability. Check with your furniture retailer to see their recycling options before buying.
4. If in doubt, donate
Donating and in turn buying secondhand is a really good way of combating the problem of fast furniture. Less furniture is going to landfill and someone else can repurchase your furniture at a lower price.
5. Touch up on your upcycling skills
Upcycling is both a fun and creative way to do furniture the sustainable way. Doing something as easy as painting over an old couch or putting a layer of varnish over your wooden wardrobe can add life to the furniture you already have.
This week, we interviewed independent filmmaker Rebecca Cappelli about her 2022 documentary SLAY. She gave us the opportunity to delve into some details surrounding the film, which goes behind the scenes of the fashion industry to investigate fur, leather and wool, greenwashing and the impact of brands using animal skins on people, planet and animals.
Rebecca Cappelli is an award-winning filmmaker and public speaker who explores subjects such
as animals, the planet, and vulnerable communities, focusing on animal rights. She is also a
photographer, animal rescuer, and educator. A French citizen based in Switzerland, Cappelli
speaks Mandarin and has lived in many parts of Asia. Leading the Let Us Be Heroes project, she
gives people the resources to empower and defend vulnerable communities, the planet,
animals, and health.
Rebecca decided to pursue filmmaking after her first short doc, Let Us Be Heroes, was released
on YouTube in 2018. “This first film process was smooth, and I got a lot of good feedback. After
releasing it, I decided to feature a documentary focusing on fashion because I used to be a
massive consumer of fashion. I spend a lot of money shopping for shoes, bags, clothing, and
everything, and I’m also a long-time animal lover,” she explains. The award winning piece led
Cappelli to create SLAY, a longer documentary that aligns with her belief system and values.
She believes sustainable fashion can not only focus on the ecological dimension of production,
but must also take into consideration the effects on animals and people throughout the supply chain. SLAY is a response to the interconnectedness of sustainability and ethicality, and seeks to
expose the stories of the fashion sector that don’t get told.
SLAY is about the production of leather for fashion. Her choice to focus on this material was
influenced by how prevalent and widespread its use is. Leather can include the skin of cows,
buffalo, goats, pigs, snakes, crocodiles, for which 1.5 billion animals die annually. It is often
advertised as natural and healthier than other materials, but the process of it getting to our
closet is something we rarely see or hear about. Spanning five continents and many
interconnected stories, SLAY’s exposure of this is extremely emotional.
“The leather process is so harmful,” she tells us. If you do not undergo an extremely
chemical-intensive tanning process, the skin rots. There is no way to avoid this when purchasing
skin products from the vast majority of businesses. “The leather we wear in western countries,
in the US, in Europe, in big capitals of the world, famous brands, etc. is usually tanned in the
global south. Countries such as India have almost no environmental laws or label laws to protect
the people that work in the supply chain, so it’s a huge issue that brands ignore.” We’re buying
leather that relies on deforested land in the Amazon and was tanned by people facing horrible
conditions and even human rights violations in India.
In some cases, the skin is finished closer to where it will be sold. In Italy, for example, there is
widespread discrimination against the immigrants who come to complete the leather making
process. “I’m talking about immigrant workers legally in Italy, who have been here for several
decades, they speak Italian - this is not a language problem. It is discrimination happening in the
industry.” For her, it was essential for SLAY to address how leather impacts animals, people, and
the environment at every phase of production.
In the filming process, knew she wanted to shoot in Italy because “it's not just about developing
countries and Global South countries. It's an uncomfortable process, but the good thing about it
is that it allows it to be the result and more authentic.”
SLAY is impressive in scope. It takes us through interviews with fur corporations, fur farm visits,
and tanning centers. As an unscripted doc, Cappelli’s reactions to the scenes were raw and
genuine. She had a rough idea and had done basic research prior to filming of who the crew
should talk to and what they might see. “My emotional response has been a vast range of
pain, sadness, anger, and shame. And I feel like we’re so ignorant.” It was shocking to try and
conceptualize the incredible number of people who suffer from this industry and its scale.
All of the shots in SLAY are from the crew’s first time on location. Cappelli told us that seeing
things like the leather tannery in India and the pollution in the Ganges River gave her a mixture
of negative feelings that were unexpected considering her previous exposure to the problems.
“One hundred million animals are killed yearly in these fur farms. Although I know these
numbers, although I've seen footage, I've seen videos - very graphic videos. I have known all
that for a while now, but still, I feel like being present and seeing them one by one in individual
cases... that was really, really intense and very overwhelming.”
After filming concluded, Cappelli has come away with the conviction that the dark underbelly of
the leather trade is really not that hidden from view. It’s hidden in the media, in branding and
marketing, and we as consumers even push what we know might be happening to a corner of
our minds when buying leather products, but the reality “is not hidden if you try to go and see
what is happening.”
“We were a small group - me, my cinematographer, and my assistant, and most of the time we
could easily access the places. I don’t see why brands can’t do that. How can they not do it
themselves?”
After shooting this movie, Cappelli tells us her overarching feelings about fashion and leather.
Even though sustainability and circularity are hot topics, and many alternative material methods
are being developed daily, even though rapid change is taking place, the scale of fashion is just
too large. Nevermind fast fashion, which the doc didn’t necessarily delve into specifically,
though the places seen they shot supply both fast fashion and luxury brands. New purchases,
even from luxury brands which are usually best-case scenarios from the leather sustainability
perspective, encourage a fast fashion like economy. Luxury brands overproduce a lot of
collections, and they constantly encourage consumption. To Cappelli, tackling the leather trade
is more a question of behavior and mindset. What is impactful is buying less and secondhand.
We should stop buying anything new. We should stop producing anything new.
The central problem when it comes to circularity, sustainability, and alternatives is that we
simply can’t curb our vast demand, even though technology exists to mitigate leather trade
impacts on a smaller scale. “Most people are conditioned to think that our happiness comes
from buying the next bag, the next shoes, wearing a certain brand, or looking a certain way.
And I think that there's nothing wrong with wanting to express ourselves with fashion. But we
miss the point because none of this will make us happy.”
She adds, “we need to engage consumers, we need to engage brands, we need to engage
organizations, we need to engage fashion professionals, students, and schools. There's a huge
amount of work to be done” that goes past engaging with the leather trade conversation at a
corporate or brand level. “We cannot just wait for consumers to become aware of these issues.
It's too slow.” One film won’t fix it all, but Cappelli sees SLAY as a good start to “ensuring that we
focus on skins and understand that animal skins are not material.”
When will we see change in leather production? Cappelli says, “I could see some evolution and
some improvements, and based on the reaction of fashion professionals that have seen the
film, I'm optimistic. I think we need big, big changes, but the reactions have been positive, and I
think that's quite encouraging. Yes, I believe we can be successful.”
Cappelli calls us to define sustainability as synonymous with ethical production. “We cannot
create complex equations to force a definition of sustainability on something that requires
another being’s suffering.” If something is produced today, it should be sustainable for the
planet, ethical for people, and animal free. That's it. “We cannot compromise any of these
three.” Cappelli says that supporting collective fashion, and an ethical, just fashion system is the
key. She recommends supporting the European Citizen Initiative, inviting us to sign a petition to
ban first sales and fur farms in Europe. You can access the petition via Take Action on the SLAY
documentary website. You can also take part in the hashtag campaign #whatshouldIwearinstead. SLAY is now available on both Amazon and Itunes with subtitles in many languages, and we highly recommend.
The month of October broke all records as several European countries recorded their hottest October ever. This fact resulted in repeated heatwaves and climate-related catastrophes. So, what are the causes behind the hottest October? And what are its effects in the future?
It is undeniable that climate change is a pressing issue for governments, businesses, and individuals all over the globe, as its impact is alarming and noticeable on many levels. France, Switzerland, Austria, and Slovenia recorded their warmest October ever, while Germany, Belgium, and Luxembourg experienced their joint warmest. France, for example, had its hottest October since 1900, according to the national weather agency, Meteo France’s statement. It recorded an average temperature close to or above 17 degrees Celsius, which was three to four degrees above normal levels. Spain also had its hottest October on record, with an average temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, 3.6 degrees Celsius higher than the average temperature recorded in October between 1981 and 2020, according to the Ministry for Ecological Transition. The country also recorded a 68% decrease in the rain compared to the usual level for that month. This record-breaking warm October everywhere in Europe caused significant climate-related catastrophes, including repeated heatwaves that fuelled wildfires and aggravated drought conditions.
Unquestionably, the unusual heat waves will become more frequent due to the notable acceleration in climate change. So let’s dig deeper into its major causes and effects.
1. Gas Emissions and Fossil Fuels
Most electricity is generated by burning fossil fuels, including coal, oil, or gas, which produce carbon dioxide and nitrous oxide, which, in turn, trap the sun’s heat.
Industries are also responsible for producing emissions due to the burning of fossil fuels to make things like iron, steel, cement, steel, plastics, clothes, etc.
Transportation, on the other hand, is a major contributor to greenhouse gases. It accounts for significant carbon dioxide emissions, as most cars, planes, and ships run on fossil fuels.
2. Cutting down forests
Cutting down forests contributes to the increase in gas emissions. Trees absorb carbon dioxide, and when they are cut, they release the carbon they have been storing. Therefore, privileging industrialisation at the expense of planting, or even keeping trees, limits nature’s ability to keep emissions out of the atmosphere.
3. Overconsumption
Climate change is a human-made disaster that spreads because of humans’ overconsumption of goods such as food, clothing, plastics, and electronics. Our lifestyles generate greenhouse gas emissions that are destructive to the planet. The wealthiest bear the greatest responsibility, with the richest 1% accounting for more emissions than the poorest 50%.
October’s alarming records are predominantly caused by climate change and the previously mentioned reasons. In this section, we will highlight some devastating effects of climate change that we experienced and, more likely, will continue to feel in the future.
1. Increasing Heat Waves and Wildfires
Europe has warmed at more than twice the global average over the past 30 years. It is the fastest-warming region, according to the World Meteorological Organisation’s (WMO) report. The rising temperatures were conducive to devastating wildfires in the Mediterranean region, with more than 500 wildfires burning across Italy in August 2021. It also had a significant impact on Europe’s glaciers. The Alps recorded a loss of 30 metres of ice thickness between 1997 and 2021, and the melting of Greenland’s ice sheet contributed to a rise in global sea levels.
2. Droughts
In Europe 2021, much of the western Mediterranean region and parts of the central and eastern Mediterranean region witnessed moderate to severe drought conditions linked to multiple heatwaves. Italy, for instance, experienced its fifth-driest spring and the driest since 2017.
3. Heavy Precipitation and Floods
Heavy precipitation led to an unprecedented death toll and damages in parts of Western and Central Europe. Central Europe experienced its most severe flooding on record in July 2021. Several rivers experienced intense flooding, and water levels exceeded historical records.
According to the WMO’s report, scientists found that for a given location within a larger region (between the north of the Alps and the Netherlands), climate change increased the prospect of such an event by a factor between 1.2 and 9, and the intensity of the maximum one-day rainfall by about 3%--19%. This figure will mostly endanger vulnerable communities that cannot face such natural catastrophes.
Climate change is a human-caused phenomenon and will disproportionately affect the Global South. It is more urgent than ever to take responsibility and serious actions to minimise its risks, as it will not stop with just the hottest October. One of the actions taking place right now is the United Nations Climate Change Conference, COP27, being held in Egypt from 6-18 November. The conference aims to turn pledges of climate-friendly measures into an implementation phase based on the agreed work streams in the Paris Agreement. How successful would this conference be? Would it push towards concrete and valuable changes? Or would it be just words without any intention to turn them into realities?
Move over sustainability - a new player has entered the game. Regenerative design is the 21st century’s answer to our environmental struggles, with the goal of bridging the gap we have created between humanity and nature and building the way our ancestors did: according to the Earth’s needs. It may just be the solution for the planet’s ailments.
If you care about the environment and the impact humans have on it, you probably strive to educate yourself on sustainability and learn better lifestyle practices to avoid having a negative effect with your consumption. In fact, that may be the very reason you read this column and shop here at Staiy. And sustainability is a necessary and commendable step in the struggle to counteract humanity’s harm to the planet - but it’s only the first step. Today, engineers, designers, architects and creatives of diverse backgrounds are increasingly looking beyond simple sustainability to regenerative design.
Simply put, it’s an approach to design that aims to cooperate with the environment and create self-sufficient, effective projects that actively contribute to the ecosystem. Its strength lies in being much more proactive than sustainability: while a sustainably designed building, for instance, is made to have a net-zero environmental impact, one made according to regenerative design will have a positive impact. So the focus shifts from minimizing or nullifying damage to actively doing good.
Regenerative design gained popularity in the 1970s when an Australian scientist and engineer duo created the word ‘permaculture’ to define a model of land management that would use onsite resources to obtain self-sufficiency. The model was then adopted by US organic farmers in the 1980s, whose goal was to utilize the land’s ability to self-replenish and regenerate its own ecosystems to create an agricultural model that would benefit both humans and the earth. The creation of closed loops is a major point of focus for regenerative design: anything built or created through it must yield its own fuel.
It is difficult to define exactly how a regenerative design project is made, and that is - forgive the pun - by design. RD systems are not made beforehand and then implemented in various environments. Each project is built from the ground up on a case by case basis, in order to both utilize the unique resources of lands and communities and also serve their unique needs. RD uses and values diversity and specificity; its principles are extremely flexible and can be adapted for a wide variety of project sizes and goals. Another core tenet of RD is, in fact, engagement with the local, which is not limited to human communities but includes flora and fauna, in accordance with the RD belief that humans can and should be active and healthful participants in local ecosystems.
As you may imagine, it will be vastly different for each project. A regeneratively designed building, for instance, may not connect to a sewer system because it’s equipped with a water filtration system that recycles all its liquid waste until its only output is clean water. It could also harvest the carbon dioxide it produces to power its refrigeration system, or be exclusively made up of building materials that can either be reused or be absorbed as nutrients by the soil. The catchphrase of ‘restore, renew, replenish’ is not only a tongue-in-cheek provocation at the ‘old’ environmentalist rallying cry of ‘reduce, reuse, recycle’, but the outline of an entire philosophy, reduced to its essential components.
“Think about design as a platform to restore, to create surpluses, and refill the tank,” explains Brian Alessi, the Sustainability Director at Henderson Engineers, a prominent RD firm. Their motto, ‘design for abundance’, seems almost heartbreakingly naive in this day and age, as the doomsday clock ticks on and many of us feel like we’re struggling to hang onto the last shreds of the planet’s wholeness. Yet Henderson is far from the only firm providing this service, and the ranks grow everyday with architects, designers, engineers and all sorts of specialists joining in the cause. Regenerative design is already a reality, and it may be just the change humanity needs to make to preserve our only Earth.
Paper Collective loves art. They discover great artists, make their work affordable, available and share it with the world. From their Copenhagen studio, they proudly collaborate with innovative creators to further their mission of sustainable products and #ARTFORALL.
At Paper Collective, they love art. From their Copenhagen studio they proudly collaborate with a handpicked selection of our favorite artists to create art for all. “We live to discover great art, make it affordable, available and share it with the world”, Paper Collective’s founder Morten Kaaber has told STAIY Magazine. Their goal since 2013 has been to bring the best contemporary art prints to people across the world. With varied backgrounds including fashion, architecture and illustration, the growing group of Paper Collective artists constantly renew and refresh the collection of original and iconic art prints.
From fashion to illustration, architecture to art, this growing group of collaborative artists are at the center of everything being done at Paper Collective. It is a playground, a space for creatives from a range of backgrounds to connect, collaborate and create. Together, they create high quality art prints and products that showcase artists’ creativity while connecting them with our global community of art lovers. Consequently, they claim: “We take great pride in growing these relationships -assisting each artist in bringing their creativity to life, whilst valuing the diversity they bring to our collection.”
Sharing a love of original, unique and expressive art with customers and collaborators, the name Paper Collective comes from the need of a community where artists can form a collective of creatives from different disciplines: architects, graphic designers, watercolor artists, photographers, etc.
All their prints are rolled and packed by hand. Each one is rolled in a piece of sustainable silk paper, packed in a 100% recycled cardboard tube and finally packed in a recycled or reused cardboard box. You can reuse the silk paper as gift wrapping next time you are going to treat one of your loved ones, use the tube for storing delicate paper as a pencil holder on your desk, even for your childrens’ train track tunnels and pirate binoculars binoculars of a true pirate. If the packaging is going directly to the waste bin, then please divide it into paper, hard cardboard and plastic!
Paper Collective operates on the belief that good design can be more than the sum of its aesthetics and functions. In collaboration with great contributing artists, they donate part of all sales to a good cause somewhere in the world.
“We aim to recycle and re-use these materials as much as we can, whilst always looking for better environmental practices and seeking out more sustainable solutions to our products and packaging”, they say in regards to the supplies kept in their warehouse.
From the launch of the very first collection, they have focused on philanthropy. . In the Summer of 2020, they completed their largest project to date - an elementary school in Taplejung, Nepal. In collaboration with the Human Practice Foundation, the school is now complete with a library, computer room and facilities for over 400 children in one of the world's most educationally marginalized regions. In 2021 they started focusing even more on reuse and recycling-expressed, through their latest project with the support of the WWF Waste to Value project. This project helps to fight plastic pollution in Kenya, Africa while providing jobs to local women and children, contributing to their economic growth.
In Kenya, about 500,000 tons of plastic are produced each year, but only about 15 % is being recycled. The rest of the plastic will either not be collected, burned or dumped in the wild. At the same time, the global demand for high- quality recycled plastics is increasing and partners from Menmark and Kanva have therefore joined forces to take up the challenge.
Together, they fight plastic pollution off the coast of Kenya while increasing the standard of living for the local population. An innovative partnership WWF Denmark, WWF Kenya and players in the recycling of plastics - Plastix, Jill Industries and Mr. Green Africa and PETCO Kenya-have entered into an innovative partnership to fight plastic pollution in coastal areas of Kenya while creating economic growth for local peoples. It starts with the plastic collectors, who are rarely unionized and therefore experience unregulated and poor working conditions. The mission of the project is to create a value chain for plastics, where collectors are trained in sorting plastics to achieve the highest possible quality. At the same time, they get access to the latest technology and buyers who want to buy the plastic from them. The project partners complement each other with different knowledge, networks and skills in the field and as the project grows, the goal is to connect more partners along the value chain.
As Christmas approaches, many people rely on Black Friday prices to afford quality gifts for family and friends. However, many of us don’t realize that Black Friday practices can negatively impact the planet in many ways. Do you know how?
Just about every year, Black Friday makes headlines for a number of reasons, like the great deals on various products, online shopping debacles or fights between customers in department stores. This year, we want to bring light to the corporate holiday but not in the way you might think. According to research published in a 2020 Forbes article, Great Britain emitted 351.5 million tons of greenhouse gasses in 2019, with about 0.12% of the nation’s output resulting from Black Friday activities alone. Black Friday may be beneficial for our wallets, but is it helpful for the environment? Let's take a look at the true cost of this "cheap" day.
Following the COVID-19 pandemic of 2020, in-store shopping has not been the same. Many people would rather shop from the comfort of their own space behind a screen. Although this can be beneficial for sustainability efforts, there are also many downsides when it comes to the intensity of online shopping during Black Friday weekend. The Forbes article says researchers have found that the most efficient and environment-friendly way to shop is to make purchases online but pick up the items in store, as this generates lower emissions than old-school shopping. However, online purchases delivered directly to your home can actually create a higher greenhouse gas footprint than buying in-store.
Why is this? Well, it has to do with the “last mile” of deliveries which concerns the efficiency of the final route of a product’s journey. If more items can be delivered on the final route, less carbon will be emitted per delivery, especially when electric vehicles or bikes are involved. A study shared by the Frontier Group states that free two-day shipping plays a large role in the increase of carbon emissions. “When shipments are sent out with shorter notice, the shipping center has less time to pack trucks to their full capacity, with the result that more trips have to be made,” says Sarah Nick, Policy Associate at the Frontier Group.
Moreover, with every item returned, carbon emissions double – and there are plenty of items getting returned within the week following Black Friday. Recent estimates shared by The U.K. Ecommerce Association found that1 in every 3 shoppers return items bought on Black Friday, causing about 30 million items to be shipped to homes then backto stores or warehouses. If these items are not returned, they are simply thrown away, shortening the life cycle of a wide variety of products which are developed, packaged, shipped and dumped into landfills. The University of Leeds shares a report from 2019 which says up to 80% of Black Friday purchases are thrown away after one or zero uses.
If Black Friday doesn’t seem like a wasteful holiday yet, you may not be shocked to learn that U.S. households alone throw out 25% more trash between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day than any other time of the year, which includes packaging along with many useful products. Nick says that more than 5 billion pounds of waste is generated from returned products each year, many including extra return packaging. She also finds that 30% to 40% of clothing sales are returned, with only 10% of those returns being restocked for resale purposes and the rest being shipped off to landfills or incinerators.
Each year, money spent during Black Friday increases, and this hasn’t stopped because of the pandemic. Research from the Frontier Group shows that in 2019, 84.2 million people shopped in stores on Black Friday and 124 million visited stores over the course of the weekend. Obviously, in-person shopping has been impacted by COVID-19, but online shopping has only increased. In 2020, Cyber Monday became the largest online shopping day in U.S. history, amassing a total of $10.8 billion in online purchases in just one day. Nick notes that a total of 1.5 billion packages were delivered over the holiday season by Amazon alone.
Although the pandemic has altered how we shop, whether in-person or online, Black Friday weekend sales prices don’t really change our shopping habits. Surely good deals are good for the environment too, right? According to these statistics, Black Friday weekend may cut consumers a nice break but they are ultimately still spending large amounts of money on “soon-to-arrive” items which are detrimental to the health of our planet, and we’re just now learning how toxic these traditional acts are.
At Staiy, we are committed to the full sustainability and transparency of our brand and the brands we support, and we believe that giving back to the planet cannot be supported through offering typical Black Friday or Cyber Monday sales prices. If you’re looking for ways to shop sustainably and avoid contributing to the carbon increase curated by Black Friday sales, shop with Staiy for your selection of sustainable gifts for the entire family. You can also practice buying with intention (not buying a product just because it is cheap or available), supporting small businesses, picking up online purchases in store, choosing the most eco-friendly shipping method like standard 5-7 day shipping and/or avoiding shopping on Black Friday weekend altogether.
We’ll leave you with some food for thought: According to a study shared by Forbes, just 10% of the population can enable a tipping point and encourage societal change. Staiy wishes you the happiest holidays this season!
As you loved our Milan's collection of the most cool second-hand fashion shops, we'll let you explore another selection, this time from Berlin. Discover the your next favorite shops in the capital!
Berlin is undoubtedly one of the most fashionable cities in the world and iconic for its street style. All it takes is a stroll through the districts like Kreuzberg's East Side gallery, Friedrichshain's coffee shops, or Mitte's boutiques, to see Berliners looking edgy and cool. Berlin's streets are full of creatives, artists, writers and designers, and sense of style and individuality defines the city.
Berliners may be trendy, but there is something uniquely innovative about the way they achieve this. They are notorious for sourcing stylish and sustainable wardrobes from second-hand shops. You might need all black to get into Berghain, but anything goes in Berlin, and a great way to find hidden gems is to shop in vintage stores.
Here are 5 second-hand fashion shops in Berlin that will have everyone asking “where did you get that?!”
#1 Humana
Address | Frankfurter Tor 3, 10243 Berlin
Opening Hours | Monday – Saturday 10 am – 8 pm
Humana is a great place to start your Berlin pre-loved fashion tour. It is Europe's largest second-hand department store and has five floors of high-quality vintage clothing.without a doubt, you’ll find something you can’t put down. Humana is full of great finds, stocking/housing everything from minimalistic fashion to glitz and glam. Even better, all the prices are low, so you will definitely bag a bargain here, and the best part is it won't make a dent in your bank balance. Make sure you have lots of time to kill to ensure you don't miss a hidden gem.
#2 Made in Berlin
Address | Neue Schönhauser Straße19, 10178 Berlin
Opening Hours | Monday – Saturday 12 pm – 8 pm
If you want an alternative shopping experience as fun as going on a merry-go-round, then Made in Berlin is the shop for you. It's another one of the largest second-hand shops in Berlin, with fun second-hand clothes over two large floors. You will feel like you have walked into Alice in Wonderland's closet as you stroll around and see the kaleidoscope of brightly coloured rails. If you're looking for an outfit to wear to a techno club, head downstairs to the cellar, where you will be sure to find some 90s rave gear. The rails are full of phat pants, boiler suits, jumpsuits, and even luminous tracksuit trousers and matching zippers. If you're after smiley face prints, visors or a little neon, you will find it in this thriving shop.
#3 PickNweight Vintage Kilo Sale
Address | Alte Schönhauser STR. 30, 10178 Berlin
Opening Hours | Monday – Saturday 12 pm – 8 pm
Berlin is a hidden gem for vintage fashion, and Picknweight is the city’s crown jewel. There is something enchanting about wearing garments filled with memories, and there is something enchanting about buying vintage clothes from this shop. All the items are sorted and easy to find, making it a seamless shopping experience and a joy to shop in. Not only is the shop in a great location, but their pricing system is dynamite. Your total depends on clothings’ weight by the kilo. Once you have picked your pieces, you take them to the scale , and the shop assistant weighs them and tells you the price. The store has a wide variety of vintage clothing suitable for all ages and sizes, the store has a great layout with plenty of fitting rooms, so you can try it before you buy!
#4 Paul's Boutique
Address | Oderberger Straße 47, 10435 Berlin
Opening Hours | Monday – Saturday 12 pm – 8 pm
If you collect trainers, we have the place for you - Paul’s Boutique. They have a vast selection of sneakers in all different shapes, sizes, colours, styles and brands. The shop has lots more to offer, from handbags to coats or jeans to t-shirts. Paul's Boutique is in trendy Prenzlauer Berg, so if you want to check out this stylish second-hand shop, why not make a day out of it and head over on Saturday?
#5 Trash Schick
Address | Wühlischstraße 31, 10245 Berlin
Opening Hours | Monday – Saturday 12 pm – 8 pm
Trash Schick is located in Berlin-Friedrichshain and offers quality second-hand clothes for those who like to wear something unique. What could be better than owning garments that no one else has apart from you? A bargain! Well, this store gives you 2-for-1, unique clothes at bargain prices. If you want to stand out in Berlin, then this is the thriving shop you need to visit. They have everything your heart desires - from any decade. The shop has been around since the 80s, so you will likely find a great selection of power suits, legwarmers, dresses in padded shoulders, spandex and Lycra tights and other accessories from decades to come.
As Black Friday is approaching we all get tempted by the advertisements and discounts. But what if we tell you, you don't have to spend money in order to get new things? This year surprise yourself by reimagining the items you already have in your wardrobe! To make it easier, here are 5 tips which can help you reuse your old clothes.
1. Reusable makeup pads
Traditional makeup remover pads generate a lot of waste. As we dispose of them after one use, these tiny pieces of cotton can pile up quite quickly. Not to mention that since these are usually not made of pure cotton, they are not recyclable. Even if they are, this only applies if you don't use them to remove makeup or for chemicals like disinfectants. Switching to reusable makeup pads is an easy way to reduce your waste. Even better is the fact that you can easily make them at home, using your old clothes and towels. To get started, make sure you use soft material, such as cotton, microfiber, terry cloth, bamboo velour or fleece. Another great tip is to make square shaped makeup remover pads instead of round ones. While we might be more used to the round shape, square ones create less fabric waste and it really doesn't make any difference when you use it. Washing them is also easy, just put your homemade makeup pads into a wash bag and wash them on low temperature.
2. Patchwork blanket
T-shirts can hold lots of memories. But as time goes by, our favorite t-shirts with bold prints and signs can wear out. If you are one of those people with a big pile of unused tees in their wardrobe, this DIY hack is for you! By creating a patchwork blanket out of your old pieces you can add a unique element to your bedroom and keep the memories at the same time. All you need is an old blanket for one side, and t-shirts for the other, which you cut into square shaped fabric pieces. Sew the pieces together then onto the blanket and there you have it. Now you won´t have to think about what to do with all the clothing, and you will also have a blanket that will keep you warm during winter.
3. Plant hangers
Adding plants to our living spaces has several benefits. They can clear the air, make any room look homely, and they add some color to our lives. It's no surprise that taking care of plants is a hobby for many. But having lots of pots around your windows might not be the best practice, as they often get in the way. Plant hangers are great decor pieces and they can help you free up some surface space too. So why not use your old clothes to create some? Here we have another t-shirt hack that is simple and you don't need to sew at all! All you need is a t-shirt, some big beams and scissors. This is a craft that will allow you to explore your creativity as there are infinite options to customize your own plant hangers. Cut your chosen fabric into long strips (make sure they are the same length), tie them together on top, then add some knots on the individual strips. As you go on, knot the strips together to create the space for your plants. This is a quick activity that does not only add some aesthetic pieces to your living room, but reuses old clothes that you already had at home.
4. Reusable masks
While this hack might require a bit more sewing talent, it is still not too difficult to master. Even though we are through the tough part of the pandemic, we might still encounter situations when we want to wear masks. One thing we realized during these difficult times was that disposable masks create tons of plastic waste. That is why reusable masks are great. They are easy to wash, will last you a long time, and most importantly, you can easily make them at home too! So if you have always been looking at the nice masks but never actually got to buy some, here's your sign to make one yourself. All you need is an old t-shirt made out of soft fabric, and two pieces of elastics. Happy sewing!
5. Upcycle
You don't necessarily have to find new purposes for your old clothing. Upcycling clothes might require some practice, but learning some basic sewing skills will open the doors to lots of new opportunities. For example, if you find that a pair of jeans or a dress doesn't fit you the way it should, with a bit of creativity you can reimage it and create a piece that makes you feel beautiful. You can start by adding some elements to your tops, tie-dying pieces, or giving your old dress a new shape. The internet is full of upcycling ideas and sewing basics, and the information is at our fingertips.making it more available to everyone than ever before. Being able to upcycle means you won't have to throw clothes away ever again. It can also save you some money, as you can buy clothes in charity or second hand shops, and don't have to worry whether they will fit you. So if you have been looking to learn some new skills, sewing might just be it!
Although hemp fibres are highly sustainable, there is still pollution involved in its production due to chemical processes. Renaissance Fiber, inspired by nature and following the principles of biomimicry, aims at transforming hemp into the most sustainable fiber on Earth.
Since the textile industry is responsible for 5% to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions and is the second-largest polluting industry after fossil fuels, it is important for us to be both aware and proactive when it comes to its production. In this way, eco-friendly materials such as hemp present a great alternative to synthetic fibres such as polyester, acrylic, and nylon, that are made using fossil fuels.
Hemp is both an ancient and sustainable material that has been used in textile production from as far back as 2800 BC. We know that hemp fibres are sustainable and restorative for the planet because it is a CO2 negative material, in that it stores more CO2 than it emits. Also, its production requires few pesticides and herbicides, and it releases few toxins into the soil and the wider ecosystem. In fact, it is said to actually improve soil quality. The only problem hemp production presents is the ecological damage it creates in the degumming process.
Degumming, to put it simply, is the process in which the natural glue that exists between the hemp fibres is removed so that the fibres can be used to make clothes. The problem that arises here is the high level of water and chemical use in this process, as well as waste treatment. This necessary process puts significant strain on the environment, which partly undoes the sustainability of hemp production.
Renaissance Fiber was founded in 2018 by Dr. Long, a postdoctoral researcher of science, who specialises in natural water and air chemistry. His extensive knowledge provided a starting point for Renaissance Fiber’s mission to flourish, enmeshing his passion for chemistry with a need for sustainability within the textile industry. The American, clean-tech manufacturer Renaissance Fiber, reimagines how we manufacture textiles by modelling their degumming process after observing how tidal streams naturally degrade plant fibres.
To put it simply, in a tidal stream degradation process, bacteria and fungi that specialise in decomposition break down the natural glue between the fibres. Renaissance Fiber then copied this process and applied it to their own degumming process.
In addition, this method uses far less energy than traditional hemp processing and creates hemp fibre that is more affordable and higher quality than other fibre types. Also, this process isolates carbon emissions, which can be returned to the ocean as a natural carbon sink.
Other than the aforementioned positive environmental effect of sustainable fibre degumming, there are many other positives that can be taken from this approach.
- Firstly, this method allows for the use of non-potable, or non-consumable water to be used which significantly decreases water waste.
- The waste produced in this process is inherently natural and can be rendered ecologically invisible.
- This type of fibre degumming is accessible to a wide range of operational scales, meaning both large production facilities and small farms can partake in this process.
- It can be done using standard textile machinery, meaning no extra cost.
- The cost of materials and energy in this process are relatively low.
Hemp as a fabric is strong and durable. It’s very gentle on the skin and very breathable. It’s easy to dye and is exceptional in hotter climates due to its ability to wick away perspiration. It’s also extremely long lasting, never wearing out or losing its shape, making it a material that can live in your wardrobe forever. In some ways it just gets better with age, this is because it gets softer with every wash. Hemp is also an antimicrobial material, which makes it resistant to bacterial development, eliminating bad smells. Lastly, it is a water-absorbent material, which helps it to retain dye better.
Workers in the garment industry are often subjected to terrible conditions. The very same industry has the power to drastically change their lives for the better. This article attempts to answer the question: are women garment workers exploited or empowered?
The garment industry is one of the greatest grey areas humanity has produced. Often upholding terrible working conditions and low pay, this industry is also mostly worked by women in less economically developed countries. Despite the often inhumane conditions, the female dominated workforce continues to grow. Fashion Revolution writes that to these women “it’s about moving out of poverty, being able to provide children with education, and to become more independent and grow as an individual”. As clearly stated, unfortunately, the way the industry currently exists creates a dichotomy between what we hope to achieve with it, and what often is the case. These statistics forever linked the question of exploitation vs empowerment with the garment industry. It is great, of course, to provide young women with the opportunity to work for a better education and to support their families. The problem arises, however, with the fact that these workers are more often than not underpaid and must put in incredible amounts of overtime, as well as suffer through terrible working environments. Even though it is true that with time, certain places did increase their wages, as reported in the 2013 Bloomberg article Bangladesh Raises Minimum Wage for Garment Workers After Unrest, it took a lot of effort to get there, and many others have yet to follow suit.
The only real way we as consumers can encourage change in the garment industry is by 1. being vocal about the issue and 2. making conscious decisions about what brands we support, and in turn increasing the demand for ethical brands who treat their workers fairly. To achieve the latter, we require transparency in the industry. If we are aware of whom we support, and what kind of conditions their workers are exposed to, we as consumers can make the necessary decisions that can impact thousands of people. This is a struggle, however, as a large number of major brands are not transparent in their supply chains and production processes. This hinders our ability to distinguish an ethical brand from a green washed one.
Have you ever heard about the 2013 factory collapse in Bangladesh? BBC News reported on the incident and stated that the death toll exceeded 1,000 individuals, as well as quoted Army Captain Shahnewaz Zakaria, writing that “most are female garment workers.” Further, it was reported that the Rana Plaza housed multiple factories, and that a day before the fatal collapse, cracks had been identified in the building, however, after a brief evacuation, the workers were instructed to get back to their duties. This awful catastrophe is only one of the atrocious ways the garment industry fails its workers.
India is one of the largest producers and exporters in the garment industry “with an export turnover of $37.11 Bn.. Despite it being 2021, unacceptable and outright ghastly instances do not cease to occur. The 20-year-old Jeyasre Kathiravel was killed by her supervisor at Natchi Apparels. The body of the young garment worker at the H&M supplier factory in Tamil Nadu was found on the 5th of January 2021 near her home. The Guardian writes that “according to police reports, a man working as a supervisor at Natchi Apparels has reportedly confessed and been charged with her abduction and murder”. Kathiravel’s family claims their daughter suffered months of sexual harassment prior to her murder. The article also quoted Thivya Rakini; she is state president of the union that represents women working at Natchi Apparels, Tamil Nadu Textile and Common Labour Union (TTCU): “Her family and coworkers have told us that Jeyasre was being harassed at work but nothing was done [...] Many workers we have spoken to say they are facing the same problems but either don’t know how to report grievances against their supervisors or say they are afraid if they speak out they will face retaliation”. Furthermore, Jeyasre Kathiravel’s family was forced into accepting financial compensation and signing a document that releases Eastman Exports, the factory owner, of any responsibility.
H&M is launching an independent investigation into the killing of the young garment worker and firmly stands by the statements that they have zero tolerance for gender-based violence. Their actions do not support their words, however, as this is not an isolated case. Corporations such as H&M may support equality on the world stage, but when it comes to behind the scenes, their supply chain and their supplier factories, they fail to make sure their ‘own values’ are being carried out. People can argue that, well then why do these women not just quit their jobs? The answer is simple, more often than not, work in the garment industry is the only one available to them. The Human Rights Watch writes of a group of eleven women garment workers who wrote a letter to their local union complaining of sexual harassment. Speaking of the union leaders, the article states that the leaders said that the women did not file a formal complaint because they “feared retaliation both at the factory and back home. Being unmarried and from conservative families, the women were dependent on their families’ permission to work in the factories. If their families learned of the harassment they endured, they risked being told not to work outside the house”.
The above is where the idea of empowerment comes up. Despite the low pay, despite the terrible conditions, and despite the harassment they experience, these women want a chance at a better life, a chance at a better education, a chance at a better future, and the sad reality is that working in the garment industry is often their only real opportunity. Jeyasre Kathiravel was the first of her family who stood a chance of getting a higher education and making it out of the garment industry, her mother shares. The achievement is not utterly impossible, as Reuters shares the story of Sadeka Begum, a garment factory worker from Bangladesh who became “one of the first graduates of a special university programme that aims to inspire female workers to become leaders and boost women’s rights across industries”. That is why we need transparency in the garment industry, to be able to identify and prevent horrible cases from taking place and to support these women. This is also where intersectional environmentalism comes into play. The effects of the fashion and garment industry on the environment are steadily gaining more attention and environmental activism is growing in numbers thanks to movements such as Fridays for Future. Intersectional environmentalism emphasises the protection of both: the planet and the people. Climate justice and social justice go hand in hand and we need to be able to acknowledge that we have to protect each other. Humanity is at its strongest when we are united.
We need to continue to be vocal and hold large corporations accountable. It is not an easy feat but it is the only way we can achieve transparency in the garment industry and fight for both climate and social justice. There is a chance for empowerment for women in the garment industry, however, currently they are largely being exploited and subjected to unacceptable and downright horrible circumstances. Alone, there is not much one can do, but united, we stand a chance at progress. The Business for Social Responsibility (BSR) released a report called Empowering Female Workers in the Apparel Industry, where they discuss what businesses can do to empower their women workers. The BSR writes; “Many of the barriers to women’s economic empowerment are systemic. The apparel sector can influence policy change and drive industry-wide progress by sharing knowledge and expertise, and supporting policies proven to advance women’s empowerment and gender equality”. It is known that the fashion industry carries a lot of power, but perhaps it is less known that it can directly influence gender equality and policymaking. The garment industry has the power to change millions of lives; the time for it to use its power for good is long overdue.
Supermarket products are now under a lot of scrutiny as more people question each product’s impact on our environment. Which products do we need to strike off our lists to become more eco-friendly? Here’s a list of 10 products to guide your shopping spree.
Big supermarkets are often criticized for their use of unsustainable and unjust practices in procuring and selling products. They rarely support local producers and sell products which are increasing our carbon footprint day by day. But there are some culprits in your favourite aisle which are especially. Here’s a list of 10 products making a huge footprint on the environment.
1. Meat
Today, it is more evident than ever that meat consumption is harming our environment greatly. A study by University of Oxford scholars concluded that meat, fish and cheese products have the highest negative impact among all supermarket food products. According to Our World in Data beef produces 71 kg of CO₂ equivalent per kg of food product, followed by lamb and goat meat at 40 kg, farmed prawns and fish at 27 kg and 14 kg respectively, pork at 12 kg and chicken at 10 kg.
Commercial meat producers like Brazil’s JBS, New Zealand’s Fonterra, Dairy Farmers of America, Tyson Foods, and Cargill are especially generating a high impact. According to research published by Agriculture and Trade Policy and GRAIN, these top five meat and dairy companies emit more greenhouse gases than fossil fuel giants like Exxon-Mobil, Shell, or BP!
2. Cheese
We all love cheese, but being a dairy product, cheese has a greater footprint than even pork, chicken and fish. Cheese produces 71 kg of CO₂ equivalent per kg of food product according to the Our World in Data website. The 13 largest dairy companies in the world, including Lactalis, Fonterra, and Danone have the same GHG emissions combined as that of the UK, as stated in a report by the Institute of Agriculture and Trade Policy. Further, companies from the EU, the US and New Zealand make up 46% of the total emissions out of all these companies.
3. Avocado
A surprise entry in this list is avocado. This is because it takes up to 320 litres of water to grow a single one! Especially in Chile, an investigation by the water authority in 2011 revealed at least 65 examples of avocado farms illegally diverting rivers and other water sources to their plantations. Further up north in Michoacan, Mexico avocado farming has led to irreversible climate change issues in the region over these past few years. Often plantations of avocado encourage deforestation, making their production unsustainable.
4. Products with palm oil as an ingredient
Palm oil is the world’s most popular vegetable oil and is used in a range of products like chocolate, ice cream, lipstick and conditioners. In Indonesia and Malaysia, the world’s largest and second-largest palm oil producers, critically endangered animals like orangutans, Sumatran rhinos and tigers suffer due to habitat encroachment. Palm oil production also contributes to deforestation, like avocados. Some of the popular brands that use palm oil are Holland & Holland (Chanel perfume), Monde Nissin, McBride, and Mitsubishi.
5. Air fresheners
A 2016 report from the Royal College of Physicians warned that air fresheners lead to poor air quality in our homes and beyond. They often contain limonene, which gives a citrus smell and reacts with ozone in our air to make formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and also has links to increased incidence of asthma. Some of the least environment-friendly air fresheners are Air Wick, Glade and Pure aerosols, which had less scores on the Environmental Working Group’s (EWG) Guide to Healthy Cleaning list.
6. Regular sunscreen
In 2020, Palau became the first country to ban “reef toxic” sunscreen. Palau’s law restricting sunscreen and skincare contains a list of 10 different chemicals like oxybenzone and octinoxate which make corals more susceptible to bleaching. Despite oxybenzone being the worst of all these chemicals, brands like Neutrogena, Clinique, Cetaphil and No-Ad still use this chemical in some of their products, according to EWG’s Skin Deep website.
7. Laundry Detergent
Laundry detergents become unsustainable if they contain heavy metals, phosphates, and other toxic chemicals which affect marine life and have an acid rain-like effect. Detergents with surfactants strip away the protective layer around fish and are also non-biodegradable. Companies which ranked low on EWG’s list for environment-friendly general-purpose detergents were Ajax and Fab Ultra. Tide is also another popular yet unsustainable laundry detergent.
8. Wipes
A single wipe takes 100 years to break down in a landfill and even after it does, it disintegrates into microplastics, endangering underwater ecosystems. According to WaterUK, these wipes make up for 90% of sewage blockage also. Although Cottonelle, Charmin, Scott, and Equate advertise flushable wipes, but according to ABC Eyewitness News, New York, they aren’t septic or sewer safe.
9. Products with chlorine bleach as an ingredient
Chlorine bleach is a constant in many kitchens and bathrooms like disinfectants, dishwashing liquids, and toilet cleaners. It is used for wastewater treatment also. However, it is a dangerous and persistent water pollutant that can linger for decades. Factories using chlorine bleach lead to toxins released into our air, causing air pollution and is also linked to ozone depletion. Popular brands like Clorox and Purex have multiple chlorine bleach products which can be swapped for chlorine-free and oxygen-bleach alternatives.
10. Dryer sheets
Dryer sheets may not actually soften your clothes but they are certainly composed of a combination of harsh chemicals. These sheets contain chemicals called quaternary ammonium compounds which are linked to many health problems like cancer, asthma and reproductive health problems. Also, they are usually made from plastic and non-synthetic non-woven fibres, making them non-biodegradable. On EWG’s Guide, dryer sheets from Walmart, Gain, Downy and Bounce were some of the worst performers.
There are many other products beyond this list also that negatively contribute to our carbon footprint on the planet. However, with increasing data available on our favourite products, it is now easy to check their composition for any unsustainable ingredients. Shopping sustainably now is crucial for our health, our planet’s well-being and to support our local businesses, especially in economically challenging times.
As roadblocks don't seem to be newsworthy anymore, climate activists have topped up their game. From pouring tomato soup and mashed potatoes on famous paintings, to spray painting the famous department store, Harrods, more and more activist groups are taking unusual action to highlight their cause.
It started in the UK´s National Gallery, where protesters from the Just Stop Oil movement spilled what appeared to be tomato soup over Van Gogh´s iconic Sunflowers painting, and glued their hands to the wall. Nine days later on October 23, activists affiliated with the group Letzte Generation (Last Generation) threw mashed potatoes over Grainstacks by Monet in Potsdam, Germany, also sticking their hands to the wall. The next target was Vermeer's Girl With a Pearl Earring in The Hague, where a person glued his head to the painting and another glued his hand to the wall.
Other than targeting museums, activists also appeared by Harrods. Just Stop Oil shared on their Twitter how two people painted the window of the department store orange, while approximately 20 protesters gathered around the location, some gluing themselves to the road. In all cases, protestors have been arrested by the police.
Many were upset after hearing the news about these actions - but that was the point? It was definitely not to create damage. As all these paintings were behind protective glass, they are reportedly unharmed. Rather, the goal was to, on one hand, gain attention, as well as to get their message across. One of the activists in Germany pointed out “We are in a climate catastrophe, and all you are afraid of is tomato soup or mashed potatoes on a painting.” Another one said: “What is worth more, art or life? Are you more concerned about the protection of a painting or the protection of our planet?”They are basically asking us: why are we upset about a painting being damaged, and not about our environment dying?
The protests were part of an effort to highlight the climate crisis, but they are also triggered by the current energy crisis in Europe. As Phoebe Plummer, one of the protesters in the National Gallery expressed, “The cost of living crisis is part of the cost of the oil crisis”.The tin of tomato soup was a tool to illustrate a bigger issue: “Fuel is unaffordable to millions of cold, hungry families. They can’t even afford to heat a tin of soup” said the activist.
In gaining attention, definitely. Their actions resulted in numerous discussions across media channels, many turning to these platforms to voice their opinions. While some expressed their support, climate activists also received many negative comments. One of the main criticisms regarding these cases was that they found a lack of logic behind attacking cultural organizations and heritage. As the critics argued, while it makes sense to stand up against oil companies or political decisions, it seems as if in this case the activists have missed the target.
As Jonathan Foley, the executive director of the nonprofit Project Drawdown told The Atlantic: “Regardless of whether you think protests like this are effective or not—and as a climate scientist, I’ve spent 30 years on this issue, so my sympathies are with the protesters, of course—I find it weird to target museums and nonprofits that help all of us”. As they pointed out, while the paintings were protected by glass, these panels are mainly effective against ultraviolet light and dust, not tomato soup. Such stunts unfortunately can also lead to other difficulties for museums. Insurance companies will likely increase their prices, resulting in rising expenses for the museums on insurance and security measures. We may also see paintings be put behind boxlike cases- like the Mona Lisa- for bigger protection. Overall, these actions are hurting these organizations and so the public itself. Foley added, “I don’t understand, in the name of preserving something we cherish, damaging something we also cherish.”
On the other hand, if we follow the logic of “any publicity is good publicity”, the protests can be deemed successful. Since many news outlets are now focusing their coverage on the cost of living and energy crisis, climate activists needed what Dana R. Fisher calls “tactical innovation”. As the Sociologist at University of Maryland explained, this happens when movements create new strategies to gain public attention. Even though targeting paintings that many cherish sparked criticism, it also made the media and the public curious. As the activists themselves expressed, their goal was not to “make friends” but to get an important message across. Plummer, who appeared at court for the incident, said “I agree; it is ridiculous. But we’re not asking the question if everyone should be throwing soup on paintings. What we’re doing is getting the conversation going so we can ask the questions that matter.”
Despite successfully gaining media coverage, some are concerned that such actions may be counter-productive. It does spark debate, yes, but not about climate change. Instead, the conversation took a turn and focused on whether civil disobedience has gone too far this time. In this light one must worry whether this anger is overshadowing the fight for the climate, and whether it is too radical for the general public.
According to Fisher's research in this area, such actions do not appear to have a bad effect on the support of the cause. As the CBC writes, “There's very little evidence that people who watch this kind of tactic are no longer going to support somebody who's running for office who wants to address climate change”. This suggests that while people might stop supporting certain organizations, they will likely not become less supportive of climate activism in general.
Whether we agree with these actions or not, and whether these will have a good or bad effect on the movement, climate activism doesn't seem to be slowing down. What we should remember from these cases are the key messages. After all, preserving our environment is just as important as preserving our cultural heritage.
Leap Concept stands for sophisticated knitwear design, sustainability and innovation. Strongly committed to use only certified sustainable materials for the manufacturing of their products. The pieces feel incredible and will leave you wanting to live in them forever.
Why we love it: a fusion of fresh silhouettes and carefully selected luxury materials are crafted into a collection of effortless pieces. Leap Concept's timeless pieces reflect a minimalist spirit, elegance, and quality. Discover easy garments for everyday life, knitted in clean lines and combined with refined structures for perfect layering.
Leap Concept stands for sophisticated knitwear design, sustainability and innovation. We have garnered a loyal emphasis on elevated lifestyle essentials with the intention to build a wardrobe instead of renewing it. Each collection is defined by a minimalist assortment, building blocks imbued with an artfully elegant point of difference and texturally rich approach. Layering effortless, understated pieces, uncompromising in their quality, they are creating a conceptual, slow fashion that cannot be trend listed. Leap Concept stands for individuality, freedom and empowerment to “Take Your Leap Of Faith”.
Fair and ethical production is always their top priority, which is why the Corporate and Social Responsibility of their garment supplier is verified by Sedex and BSCI. Furthermore, their ISO 9001 certified quality system ensures production of premium quality products.
State of the art, STOLL flat knitting technology, is used to sustainably produce their knitwear products having the best quality and performance. And lastly, their sustainable mission wouldn’t be complete if we don’t pay attention to all the details. All the labeling and packaging materials we use are made of 100% (GRS) recycled materials and FSC certified.
They also have full visibility and control on our supply chain, maintaining close relationships with all the suppliers, starting from the farms in Inner Mongolia, all the way to the yarn, garment and packaging suppliers. We make sure that all our suppliers are working according to the highest industry standards and hold international certifications for their business practices. Furthermore, their yarns are dyed, spun and engineered with the environment in mind, ensuring there are no harmful chemicals used in the production process and being conscientious that pollution is not leaked into the water or air.
The dyes used are certified by multiple bodies, including meeting the standards by OEKO-TEX, INTERTEK and REACH. In addition, the dyes used have high absorbency and its effectiveness directly leads to less water and energy consumption.
Talking about materials, they are strongly committed to use only certified sustainable materials for manufacturing their products.
Cashmere: Their (GCS) cashmere is sourced from ethical farms in Inner Mongolia, carefully and regularly monitored to ensure the best living standards of the animals. All the fiber is traceable to a specific region and down to the individual cone. Our yarn supplier is a member of SFA (Sustainable Fibre Alliance) & ICCAW.
Wool: They are sourcing the finest wool with the highest standards for sustainability. The yarn supplier is a member of Woolmark and certified by the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).
Yak: From the highest plateaus of the Himalaya mountains, from semi-nomadic herding communities, with warmth that protects at sub-zero temperatures, their yarn has been sourced partnering with SHOKAY. They commit that 1% of our yak yarn revenue returns towards the independently run Community Fund.
Fresh and new, Leap Concept presented clean and timeless shapes, natural and sustainable materials, styled in a contemporary mood aligning the melancholically staged atmosphere. AURORA, the purple light that appears in the east just before the sunrise, just like the pastel colors used as a base for the fantasy palette of this collection. Light shades of browns and ivories, sea blues or fresh oranges are presented in blurred textures and speckled knits paired with classic neutrals to create an easy-to-mix collection.Sustainably sourced and traceable cashmere, merino wool, alpaca and yak wool are some of the precious natural materials used for this collection. Let’s discover some great pieces:
Oversized V-neck sweater knitted in chunky responsibly sourced wool and cashmere blend. Rib knitted at neck, cuffs and hem. With a homespun look, designed for an oversized fit. Fits comfortably across the shoulders with relaxed raglan sleeves.
This super soft and cozy sweater has everything I would be looking for in a sweater! Let’s start with the fabric: Cashmere. What’s not to love about cashmere? The fabric makes this sweater the ideal item for chilly summer nights, but also a lovely layer for those cold winter days. The color is spot on. And last but not least, the technology that has been used to make this sweater is innovative and leaves a very low carbon footprint. Win-win-win!
The need for sustainability is rapidly growing across all sectors, especially in the realm of food delivery where unnecessary plastic packaging and takeout options are some of the greatest contributors to landfills across the world. As restaurants and food delivery services are making sustainability more available to consumers, here are some ways you can make your food delivery more eco-friendly.
When you order takeout or get your leftovers to go, many restaurants cover their food in piles of plastic for a safe trip to your home. While the food will usually get eaten, all of the plastic packaging will end up in the trash and, eventually, the landfill. However, this doesn’t mean we have to stop eating takeout just to be sustainable. Here are 8 practical steps you can take to lessen your economic footprint and enjoy restaurant food at home.
1. Opt for e-receipts
Many businesses are changing their checkout method to include e-receipts. By inputting your name, email and/or phone number into a system, a company can send your receipt directly to your phone instead of printing more paper. Next time you order from a restaurant and are given the option, opt for an e-receipt! If e-receipts aren’t the restaurant’s go-to, see if they would be able to send an electronic receipt to your phone instead of printing your receipt on paper that will ultimately end up in the trash.
2. Opt out of plastic cutlery.
If you’re eating your meal at home or bringing leftovers, do you really need to take plastic cutlery with you? Instead of leaving the restaurant with assorted plastic cutlery or having them deliver, have the person preparing your meal leave out the extra plastics.
3. Opt out of extra plastics.
Speaking of leaving out extra plastics, have the restaurant place loose fruits and vegetables in your bag or box instead of wrapping them in plastic cling wrap. You can also ask the restaurant to avoid using multiple plastics in the packaging process by asking them not to use excess packaging products like cling wrap and plastic bags.
4. Avoid single-use condiments.
This one is as simple as it gets. When the restaurant or delivery app asks you to choose a sauce, simply say “none.” Avoid picking up the single-use sauce packets and choose condiments you have at home.
5. Take your own reusable dishware, and reuse plastic and styrofoam packaging.
If a restaurant allows it, ask them to package your to-go order in a reusable container you bring from home. If they can’t package your order in a paper box and must offer you plastic or styrofoam packaging, simply reuse it. After finishing your meal, clean out your plastic or styrofoam container and keep it in your cupboard until you can use it again so that you can avoid using classic single-use packaging just once!
6. Research plastic-free restaurants.
Cut out plastic from your dining or takeout experience in one fell swoop. Check out resources like Plastic Free Restaurants or use the Plastic Score app. Both give you the option to minimize your use of plastic wherever your next meal may take place.
7. Avoid paper to-go menus and opt for online versions.
When COVID struck, many restaurants turned to online menus for public health safety. Although they may have returned to using paper or laminated menus, many restaurants have their menu on their website or through an app which you can access through your phone’s scanner. Instead of taking paper menus from a restaurant or having them package it in your to-go order, say no and opt for online ordering. And if you do receive a paper to-go menu that you’ll never use, you know what to do: recycle it.
8. Subscribe to receive groceries and meal kits from plant-based markets.
Many online markets offer a variety of food and drink items and meal kits to sustain any diet. Instead of getting takeout, reduce your carbon footprint and make fresh meals at home with these sustainable options. Online meal services like Home Chef, HelloFresh and Green Chef are great options to help you choose easy-to-make meals at home that are body- and budget-friendly. And if you want the best of both worlds, Hello Fresh and Green Chef recently launched their most sustainable meal kit options which offer a collaboration between the two services to help you find your most eco-friendly option. Markets like Thrive Market and Misfits Market also carry a range of organic produce and other groceries that are adult- and kid-friendly, kind to your wallet and packaged in an eco-friendly way.
If you’re looking to go plastic-free and feel like it’s just too hard to do when dining in or taking out, we encourage you to speak up, stand your ground and make one small change on behalf of the environment. The solution to plastic pollution begins with you.
Gary Bencheghib was just 14 when he began his battle with marine plastic pollution. His path to being Bali’s River Man meanders through Paris, Bali, New York and West Java. Read on to discover more about the inspiring work of the young activist and filmmaker.
Gary Bencheghib is among the four awardees for this year’s Ramon Magsaysay award, which is also known as Asia’s Nobel Prize. The young filmmaker and activist has been using the power of the camera to capture and expose the state of our rivers due to plastic pollution. His organization’s persistence and commitment to cleaning up Indonesia’s Citarum river using local support and wisdom won the hearts of many around the world. But his journey began with a small step by three siblings on a beach in Bali.
Gary was born in France to French parents who were drawn to the local culture and natural beauty of Bali. This wish became a reality when the family moved there when Gary was nine. But all was not well in this paradise of an island. In an interview with The Honeycombers, Gary reminisced, "I grew up on this magical island since the age of nine and very quickly saw the rapid impacts of plastic pollution. Every rainy season, Bali becomes the island of plastic."
With time, he and his friends became apprehensive when going for a swim or playing barefoot at the beach. Gary remembered that many times when they surfed, their arms were encircled with plastic. Recognising the need for urgent action at the young age of 14, he and his siblings Sam and Kelley, who were 12 and 16 themselves, took up the small but significant step of cleaning beaches with their friends every Saturday. Soon, a local recording artist noticed and publicised their admirable work and slowly, their small community grew into a group of 200 people.
After seeing increased participation, the Bencheghibs decided to take the movement to the next level. They increased promotion and awareness campaigns to organize a hike up Bali’s most known Volcano, Mount Agung for Gary’s 16th birthday. Everyone was encouraged to donate more to the ongoing beach clean-ups and for raising awareness of the negative impact of plastic pollution on the local economy. This was truly an admirable way to celebrate his birthday.
The success of the hike prompted the Bencheghibs to start an organization called “Make a Change World” which is also a media outlet that they jointly run even today. But as the condition of the island got worse, Gary harnessed the power of music and social media to organize the ‘Bali Environment Day Concert’, on May 1, 2010. His own musical talent then carried him all the way to New York, where he’d applied for Fordham University in their Juilliard exchange program.
When Gary reached Fordham, his school suddenly announced that the music program wouldn’t be offered effective immediately. But rather than studying something he wasn’t interested in, he enrolled to study filmmaking. Surprisingly, Gary had never held a camera before then, so he decided to make the best of the situation. His first project also reflected his deep care and concern for the environment. He shared in an interview with Prestige Online, “this project was called ‘Trash Me’. One of my friends decided to wear all the trash he created. So he put on a giant trash suit. Every day he put in it the average amount of trash that Americans create, about 4.5 pounds of plastic. He got bigger and bigger. After 30 days, he was this monster walking around in New York!”
But this journey of using filmmaking for showing the world the state of our rivers had just begun. After film school, he and his brother knew it was time to revive their first venture, Make a Change World. “Instead of climbing the highest mountain or going down to the deepest ocean floor, we wanted to get out to make a statement,” he said in an interview with the Well Magazine. To achieve this, they decided to film themselves rowing down the Mississippi river. The success didn’t come easy, unfortunately. The film's visuals couldn’t gather the attention they’d hoped for. So for their next project, they decided to go all in. They Googled “the world’s most polluted river” and found that the answer would bring them closer to home.
Located in West Java, Indonesia, the Citarum river’s sorry state is primarily due to human destruction. “It’s the river where all the big Fast fashion companies manufacturing in Southeast Asia are. Gap, Zara and H&M all operate on the river,” Gary explained during the interview. At times, the river somewhat resembled the mythological river of fire Phlegethon when the thick debris of the river started burning. To capture this dire situation, the Bencheghib brothers set off down the river in their kayaks made of plastic bottles and carrying their equipment in their hands.
The images and videos of their trip went viral on social media, ensuring that the issue finally got the attention it deserved. The duo was asked to fly to Jakarta and meet with President Jokowi. The talks resulted in the Indonesian government deploying 7000 troops for emergency cleanup and constructing a 7-year plan to make Citarum’s water drinkable by 2025. This made the arduous trip spanning 136 km in 2 weeks worth it, even when Gary caught an infection after a celebratory jump in the Java Sea.
The tremendous outreach of this last effort with little experience as compared to the scale of what was required left Gary in need of simple solutions for river clean-ups. He started an organization called “Sungai Watch'' or River Watch. His team now also focuses on developing systems for sorting and recycling the trash in warehouses where local and community workers sort through trash based on size, type and manufacturer to hold the polluters accountable also. According to Sungai Watch’s website, their initiative coupled with government support has also led to the installation of 173 river barriers, the collection of 715,321 kg of plastic trash and 438,749 kg of organic waste, within 2 years!
Gary has mobilized the local community primarily for this purpose as he believes that would create more awareness and passion for change. “We’re destroying the planet at such a rate that in order to solve plastic pollution – potentially one of the problems we can win- we need to go million per cent and give it our everything.” Resonating with this passionate appeal to all people, we hope to see Gary’s work grow and serve as a model for other countries also. Like Gary Bencheghib, we need to not only minimize our negative impact but reverse the damage done to our beautiful rivers in every way we can for the safety of our planet.
We at Staiy can’t wait to see other many great initiatives from this amazing guy helping the environment!
At Staiy, we value being in the know on all things sustainable. If you’re new to the idea of sustainability or just want to get a better understanding of why much of our economy is not sustainable, check out some of our favorite films that debunk organizational myths and urge individuals to make ethical, sustainable choices.
Behind every item we purchase is a producer. The bigger the producer, the more likely they follow production standards that are unethical, unsustainable, and even harmful to particular environments and ecosystems. Thankfully, filmmakers have made an effort to research and capture on video the maltreatment of animals and materials that many companies hide behind exceptional branding. We encourage you to check out these five films to understand why sustainable efforts are important to save materials, oceans, livestock, bees and our climate.
1. The True Cost
Released in 2015, The True Cost is a documentary which exposes the world of fast fashion. Director Andrew Morgan became interested in the topic in 2013 following the Savar building collapse, where Rana Plaza, a commercial building in Bangladesh, collapsed and killed over one thousand workers in the textile industry. In his documentary, Morgan pieces together several interviews with environmentalists, factory owners, garment workers and people who promote fair trade fashion and sustainable clothing production. Through these interviews, the film exposes how fast fashion is linked to ideas such as capitalism, consumerism, globalization, structural poverty and oppression.
Furthermore, The True Cost shows how increased demand for materials such as cotton in places like India has led to the genetic modification and higher prices of material resources, as well as pollution in various areas due to malproduction and disposal. The film also looks at the fashion industry’s targeted audiences – teenagers – and careless disposal practices, including statistics which find that almost 90% of clothing ends up in landfills - in the United States alone! The True Cost urges consumers, especially teenagers, to donate material items and invest in higher quality clothing.
Check out The True Cost today to learn more about how fast fashion negatively impacts our world, and how we can be part of the sustainable solution.
2. A Plastic Ocean
If you’re not well aware of how plastic truly influences oceanic ecosystems and human nutrition, watch A Plastic Ocean. Directed by Craig Leeson and released in 2016, this film focuses on the effect of plastic on marine life and the environment in over 20 locations across the world over a timespan of four years. Using fact and experience, Leeson and diver Tanya Streeter team up to explore the direct negative impacts of plastic in waterways, including interviews with researchers who reveal alarming truths about pollution on ecosystems. The film also reveals ways that we as consumers can act now to aid in the solution.
3. Cowspiracy: The Sustainability Secret
In this environmental documentary, filmmaker Kip Andersen uncovers shocking truths about the livestock farming industry. Cowspiracy: The Sustainability Secret suggests that animal agriculture is the leading cause of many issues, including deforestation, water consumption and pollution, greenhouse gases, rainforest destruction, species extinction and habitat loss, topsoil erosion, ocean “dead zones,” and more.
In this 2014 film, Andersen approaches leaders in the environmental movement and discovers what appears to be intentional refusal of the discussion of animal agriculture. According to the film’s website, Cowspiracy: The Sustainability Secret is “as eye-opening as Blackfish and as inspiring as An Inconvenient Truth, this shocking yet humorous documentary reveals the absolutely devastating environmental impact large-scale factory farming has on our planet, and offers a path to global sustainability for a growing population.”
To learn more about the environmental impact of the animal agriculture industry, check out Cowspiracy: The Sustainability Secret today.
4. Before the Flood
In 2016, National Geographic set out to fight climate change. Director Fisher Stevens and actor Leonardo DiCaprio, including interviews with other public figures, explore the effects of climate change in various areas of the world and climate change denial over the course of three years. In the film, DiCaprio and Stevens witness and discuss the impact of global warming and how to fight the climate crisis, nicknamed “the flood.” The pair also followed a carbon tax to produce the film.
Ban Ki-Moon, Secretary General for the United Nations, says in the film, “Climate change is the single greatest threat to a sustainable future but, at the same time, addressing the climate challenge presents a golden opportunity to promote prosperity, security and a brighter future for all.”
Check out Before the Flood today to learn more about the climate crisis across the world and how you can “fight the flood.”
5. More than Honey
More Than Honey is a 2012 documentary by Swiss director Marcus Imhoof. The film explores honeybee colonies in California, Switzerland, China and Austria, and discusses why bees worldwide are facing near extinction. According to the film’s website, “depending on the region, 50% to 90% of all local bees have disappeared, and this epidemic is still spreading from beehive to beehive – all over the planet.”
According to the site: “In the US, the latest estimates suggest that a total of 1.5 million (out of 2.4 million total beehives) have disappeared across 27 states. In Germany, according to the national beekeepers association, one fourth of all colonies have been destroyed, with losses reaching up to 80% on some farms. The same phenomenon has been observed in Switzerland, France, Italy, Portugal, Greece, Austria, Poland and England, where this syndrome has been nicknamed “the Mary Celeste Phenomenon”, after a ship whose crew vanished in 1872.”
Honeybees play a significant role in the health of floriculture and agricultural crops, which is why their near extinction is so concerning for environmentalists and beekeepers, among others. To learn more about this issue and how to contribute to the solution, check out More Than Honey today.
Looking to watch it for free? With just a simple search, you can find ways to watch these films online through free agencies or with a subscription to some of your favorite streaming services. You can also check with your local library or video store for a copy at a reduced cost.
Have you ever wondered how your diet affects the environment? Here we created a list that can help you find out about food's water footprint, and what alternatives you could consider to reduce your impact on our planet.
Though sometimes we might not consider this, what we eat doesn't only affect our body, but has an environmental impact as well. Food is a big consumer of freshwater: data suggest that food accounts for 66% of our total water consumption. According to The 71 Percent, 52.8 million gallons of water per second are required to feed the planet's population. Different products all have their water footprints, which is calculated by considering the amount of water that is needed, consumed and polluted in all processing stages of its production. Here we collected some information about common foods and their water footprint, according to Mekonnen and Hoekestra (2010), Mekonnen and Hoekestra (2011) and waterfootprint.org.
Research found that meat, and especially red meat, requires the most water throughout its production processes: we use water to grow food for the animals, for their drinking water, as well as for meat production. To produce 1 kg of beef, we need 15 400 liters of water. The same amount of sheep meat takes 8763 liters. Pork and chicken are the least water consuming meat types, pork taking 5988 l/kg, and chicken taking 4325 l/kg.
After mentioning meat, many also start to wonder about eggs. For many of us, eggs are an essential part of many of our meals, and a good replacement of protein if we decide to have a vegetarian diet. Yet due to the same reasons as meat, eggs require quite a lot of water to produce: 3265 L/kg.
Not surprisingly, other animal products, such as dairy products, also have higher water footprints. Butter takes 5553 l/kg, cheese 3175 l/kg, while dairy milk has a water consumption of 1020 l/kg. On the other hand, there are many alternatives to dairy milk, such as oat, soy, almond or coconut, some of them having a much smaller water footprint.
Since nuts are considered big water consumers, milk made out of them such as almond milk - though having a smaller impact than dairy - still has a high water footprint. It is estimated that a single glass of almond milk needs 74 liters of water. Rice milk is also a more water consuming alternative. Rice is known as the most water-intensive crop, and as such, one glass of rice milk requires 54 liters of water. Luckily, soy and oat milk, which are the most popular milk alternatives on the market, have very low water usage. This makes them the best option if we want to limit our water-footprint.
Different crops vary in terms of their water needs. However, some of the most popular crops today are considered highly water-intensive. This list includes rice, soybeans, wheat, sugar cane, and cotton. On the other side of the scale lie crops such as lima beans, pole beans, corn, peas, and sunflowers.
Nuts, as mentioned earlier, have very high water footprints. Tree nuts such as almonds, walnuts, pistachio or hazelnut, need lots of water to grow. On average, nuts are considered to be one, if not the highest water consuming foods, needing 9063 liters per kilogram.
A good alternative to nuts may be seeds. Usually grouped together with nuts in dietary recommendations, seeds have similar benefits. Yet they have a much lower water footprint. Seeds which require the least water are pumpkin and watermelon seeds.
Our breakfast cereals are estimated to have a water footprint of about 1644L/kg. So, if we have 25g of cereal - with a footprint of 41 liters, combined with 250 ml of dairy milk - taking a further 255 liters of water, our breakfast has an overall 286 liters of water footprint.
Last but not least we got to mention fruits and veggies. While their needs may slightly vary, they are considered to be some of the least water consuming foods. For example, 1kg of tomatoes require 214 liters of water, while 1kg of cabbages need 237 liters. Fruits such as bananas and apples require a bit more - 790 L/kg and 822 L/kg each - but are still on the lower end of the food water footprint scale.
Reconsider our daily habits is a great step towards a more sustainable living. Take a moment to reflect on your diet and make the changes needed to help our planet restore!
Ethologist and conservationist Jane Goodall redefined what it means to be human and set the standard for how behavioral studies are conducted through her work with wild chimpanzees in Gombe Stream National Park, Tanzania.
Dr. Valerie Jane Morris-Goodall, best known simply as Jane Goodall, was born in Bournemouth, England, on April 3, 1934, to Margaret (Vanne) Myfanwe Joseph and Mortimer (Mort) Herbert Morris-Goodall. As a child, she had a natural love for the outdoors and animals. She had a much-loved dog, Rusty, a pony, and a tortoise, to name a few of their family pets. When Jane was about eight she read the Tarzan and Dr. Dolittle series and, in love with Africa, dreamed of traveling to work with the animals featured in her favorite books. Jane was unable to afford college after graduation and instead elected to attend secretarial school in South Kensington, where she perfected her typing, shorthand, and bookkeeping skills. She retained her dream of going to Africa to live among and learn from wild animals, and so she took on a few jobs including waitressing and working for a documentary film company, saving every penny she earned for her goal.
In July 1960, at the age of 26, Jane Goodall traveled from England to what is now Tanzania and ventured into the little-known world of wild chimpanzees. Equipped with little more than a notebook, binoculars, and her fascination with wildlife, Jane Goodall braved a realm of unknowns to give the world a remarkable window into humankind’s closest living relatives. Through nearly 60 years of groundbreaking work, Dr. Jane Goodall has not only shown us the urgent need to protect chimpanzees from extinction; she has also redefined species conservation to include the needs of local people and the environment. Today, at 88 years old, she travels the world, speaking about the threats facing chimpanzees and environmental crises, urging each of us to take action on behalf of all living things and the planet we share.
To prepare for her upcoming expedition Jane moved to London to work in the film library of Granada Television’s film library at the London Zoo where she spent her spare time studying the behavior of primates. In May 1960, Jane learned that Leakey had obtained funding from the Wilkie Brothers Foundation. Permits in hand, she boarded a plane to Africa. On July 14, 1960, Jane arrived by boat at the Gombe Stream Game Reserve on the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika with her mother−local officials would not allow Jane to stay at Gombe without an escort−and a cook, Dominic.
When Jane Goodall entered the forest of Gombe, the world knew very little about chimpanzees, and even less about their unique genetic kinship to humans. She took an unorthodox approach in her field research, immersing herself in their habitat and their lives to experience their complex society as a neighbor rather than a distant observer and coming to understand them not only as a species, but also as individuals with emotions and long-term bonds.
An older chimpanzee−whom Jane named David Greybeard, although the practice of naming one’s study subjects was taboo in ethology−began to allow Jane to watch him. As a high ranking male of the chimpanzee community, his acceptance meant other group members also allowed Jane to observe. It was David Greybeard whom Jane first witnessed using tools. She spotted the chimpanzee sticking blades of stiff grass into termite holes to extract termites. Excited, she telegraphed Dr. Leakey about her groundbreaking observation. He wrote back, “Now we must redefine ‘tool,’ redefine ‘man,’ or accept chimpanzees as humans.” Dr. Jane Goodall’s discovery in 1960 that chimpanzees make and use tools is considered one of the greatest achievements of twentieth-century scholarship.
During the years she studied at Gombe Stream National Park, she made three observations that challenged conventional scientific ideas: (1) chimps are omnivores, not herbivores and even hunt for meat; (2) chimps use tools; and (3) chimps make their tools (a trait previously used to define humans). Beyond the significance of her discoveries, Jane's high standard for methods and ethics in behavioral studies may have had the greatest impact in the scientific community. Her field research at Gombe transformed our understanding of chimpanzees and redefined the relationship between humans and animals in ways that continue to emanate around the world. Jane continued to work in the field and, with Leakey’s help, began her doctoral program without an undergraduate degree in 1962. At Cambridge University, she found herself at odds with senior scientists over the methods she used−how she had named the chimpanzees rather than using the more common numbering system, and for suggesting that the chimps have emotions and personalities. She further upset those in power at the university when she wrote her first book, ‘My Friends, the Wild Chimpanzees,’ published by National Geographic, aimed at the general public rather than an academic audience. The book was wildly popular, and her academic peers were outraged. Dr. Jane Goodall earned her Ph.D. on February 9, 1966, and continued to work at Gombe for the next twenty years.
On the path to becoming the world’s leading primatologist, Dr. Jane Goodall redefined traditional conservation and shifted from scientist to conservationist and activist. In 1977, she founded the Jane Goodall Institute to support the research in Gombe and scale up the protection of chimpanzees in their habitats. In the late 1980s, it became clear that Gombe was only part of the solution to a much bigger, rapidly growing problem of deforestation and declining chimpanzee populations across Africa. Knowing that local communities are key to protecting chimpanzees, she redefined traditional conservation with an approach that recognizes the central role people play in the well-being of animals and habitat. In 1991, when a group of young people confided their own deep concerns, she invited them to co-found Roots & Shoots, a program at work with young people in 100 countries to foster the informed generation of conservation leaders our world so urgently needs.
“The least I can do is speak out for those who cannot speak for themselves.”
- Jane Goodall
Today, Dr. Jane Goodall travels around the world, writing, speaking and spreading hope through action, encouraging each of us to “use the gift of our life to make the world a better place. “As a conservationist, humanitarian and crusader for the ethical treatment of animals, she is a global force for compassion and a UN Messenger of Peace. Every day, Dr. Jane Goodall exemplifies the difference one person can make. Over the years, her groundbreaking research at Gombe has attracted many women, who were nearly absent from the field of primatology when she began. Today, women lead the field of long-term primate behavioral studies around the world. She also inspires hundreds of thousands of young people to take action in their own lives and communities through the Roots & Shoots youth program. Now 100 countries strong and growing, Roots & Shoots is an unprecedented multiplying force in conservation, giving young people the knowledge and confidence to act on their beliefs and make a difference by being part of something bigger than themselves.
“Until we have peace and harmony with the environment, we will never live in a world of peace.”
- Jane Goodall